Pinging/knocking
Super Moderator
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,945
RE: Pinging/knocking
good point. do read our WOT link.
https://www.cadillacforum.com/m_7154/tm.htm
the WOT as defined in this web site is
pedal to the metal from a well defined low limit
to a well defined upper limit and then
FOOT OFF the pedal to a well defined LOW LIMIT
and repeats.
you got to stop the knocking or the engine will self destroy - but you know that.
keeps us posted
small print note:
none of this promotes or encourages spinning wheels, burning rubber, speeding, over-revs, or
other abuse that other web sites think is good - we dont agree with that philosophy.
Such behavior can damage not only the engines and transmissions,but may also do serious damage to the
personal ego with either RED Lights behind you or getting home on a flat bed.
https://www.cadillacforum.com/m_7154/tm.htm
the WOT as defined in this web site is
pedal to the metal from a well defined low limit
to a well defined upper limit and then
FOOT OFF the pedal to a well defined LOW LIMIT
and repeats.
you got to stop the knocking or the engine will self destroy - but you know that.
keeps us posted
small print note:
none of this promotes or encourages spinning wheels, burning rubber, speeding, over-revs, or
other abuse that other web sites think is good - we dont agree with that philosophy.
Such behavior can damage not only the engines and transmissions,but may also do serious damage to the
personal ego with either RED Lights behind you or getting home on a flat bed.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 8
RE: Pinging/knocking
The saga continues,
So I took the 96 STS to the dealer. They talked me out of the knock sensor replacement and charged me $600 for a diagnosis and to clean the throttle body, and for two bottles of z-max. They told me it was fixed and I was happy to pay the $600.
My euphoria was brief because within 10 minutes of leaving the dealership, the engine warmed up and the spark-knock was back.
So, I am out $600+ and my brand new Knock sensor ($60) is still sitting on the passenger seat, and the engine is still hammering away when it gets hot. The weather is cooling down and the spark-knock is greatly reduced on thecooler days.
Installing the knock sensor is not as easy as I thought. It is apparently located beneath the intake manifold. I have to remove the engine cover, new stainless fuel rail, throttle body, EGR valve, and plastic intake manifold. The only part of this that makes me nervous is the new stainless fuel rail. I have never removed one before. I know there is a specific tool to separate the fuel lines, but how do the fuel injectors disconnect from the fuel rail?
Yes, the dealer last week did replace the old plastic fuel rail with the stainless one, (recall)so they were that close to the knock sensor, but refused to replace it. So now I have to dig in and replace it myself.
Does anyone know what information a novice should know before removing the fuel rail? Also, a list of tools may be helpful since I did not bring any tools with me, I will be making a few trips to Sears.
Thanks in advance!
Jon
So I took the 96 STS to the dealer. They talked me out of the knock sensor replacement and charged me $600 for a diagnosis and to clean the throttle body, and for two bottles of z-max. They told me it was fixed and I was happy to pay the $600.
My euphoria was brief because within 10 minutes of leaving the dealership, the engine warmed up and the spark-knock was back.
So, I am out $600+ and my brand new Knock sensor ($60) is still sitting on the passenger seat, and the engine is still hammering away when it gets hot. The weather is cooling down and the spark-knock is greatly reduced on thecooler days.
Installing the knock sensor is not as easy as I thought. It is apparently located beneath the intake manifold. I have to remove the engine cover, new stainless fuel rail, throttle body, EGR valve, and plastic intake manifold. The only part of this that makes me nervous is the new stainless fuel rail. I have never removed one before. I know there is a specific tool to separate the fuel lines, but how do the fuel injectors disconnect from the fuel rail?
Yes, the dealer last week did replace the old plastic fuel rail with the stainless one, (recall)so they were that close to the knock sensor, but refused to replace it. So now I have to dig in and replace it myself.
Does anyone know what information a novice should know before removing the fuel rail? Also, a list of tools may be helpful since I did not bring any tools with me, I will be making a few trips to Sears.
Thanks in advance!
Jon
Super Moderator
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,945
RE: Pinging/knocking
ORIGINAL: jonrodman
Hello brougham1 and Stealth,
Thanks for the good ideas. I will put in a new knock sensor tomorrow.
I have been occasionally doing WOT anyways. Not as often lately, but I just drove 800 miles and did have the petal to the floor a bunch of times.
I did put on new spark plug wires yesterday. That made a difference. It idles smoother and is perkier. Two or the wires appeared to have burned through and must have been arcing to the aluminum head at least intermittantly. The new wires also seemed to have greatly reduced the pinging.
The pinging is still occuring but not as much. Tomorrow I will change the knock sensor and put in new plugs. That knocking has probably damaged one or more of the plugs.
I actually cannot believe the engine has withstoodthe knocking. It would have killed an ordinary engine. I have kind or ruled out the higher operating temperature as being a problem. It really is not running much warmer than in the north, the cooling fans so come on when the guage reaches the first mark past half way. The needle never goes anywhere near the red and there is not any loss of coolant.
I am at a higher altitude.
If the knock sensor does the trick, I will let you know.
Thanks again,
What a knowledgeable group!
Jon
Hello brougham1 and Stealth,
Thanks for the good ideas. I will put in a new knock sensor tomorrow.
I have been occasionally doing WOT anyways. Not as often lately, but I just drove 800 miles and did have the petal to the floor a bunch of times.
I did put on new spark plug wires yesterday. That made a difference. It idles smoother and is perkier. Two or the wires appeared to have burned through and must have been arcing to the aluminum head at least intermittantly. The new wires also seemed to have greatly reduced the pinging.
The pinging is still occuring but not as much. Tomorrow I will change the knock sensor and put in new plugs. That knocking has probably damaged one or more of the plugs.
I actually cannot believe the engine has withstoodthe knocking. It would have killed an ordinary engine. I have kind or ruled out the higher operating temperature as being a problem. It really is not running much warmer than in the north, the cooling fans so come on when the guage reaches the first mark past half way. The needle never goes anywhere near the red and there is not any loss of coolant.
I am at a higher altitude.
If the knock sensor does the trick, I will let you know.
Thanks again,
What a knowledgeable group!
Jon
1st - do look at the timing as brougham1 stated .. i believe more knocking is caused by timing issues
than anything else.
2nd would be the posibility of carbon deposits. read the WOT as per this website.
not everyone's definition of the WOT makes for a proper WOT.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 8
Solution
Hello Everyoine,
It has been a long time since I solved the pinging or preignition issue, but wanted to share the rest of the story.
It turned out that the intake air temperature sensor was faulty. It was intermittently sending a signal that the intake air was -44 degres. This was causing all those problems. A new sensor solved it.
Jon
It has been a long time since I solved the pinging or preignition issue, but wanted to share the rest of the story.
It turned out that the intake air temperature sensor was faulty. It was intermittently sending a signal that the intake air was -44 degres. This was causing all those problems. A new sensor solved it.
Jon
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