One learning point, though...can't get the washers on the studs with the head fully seated on them. Had to insert washers on top row with studs just poking through the hole (see 1st pic). 7" studs have PLENTY of clearance. Was worried about them interfering with with the camshaft.

 

Heads clamped down perfectly! Stepped the Torque to 75 ft-lbs. Roughed in the timing. I'll match up timing marks next weekend and slap the timing cover and valve covers back on.

Feel free to jump in anytime if I'm missing something, or doing it the hard way.

 

OK...not sure if I've got the timing right, but #1 cyl at TDC (rear bank, closest to timing cover) and crank mark is lined up w/the sprocket mark.

Cam sprockets are as follows: RE up/Exhaust side, RI up/Intake side, LE up/Exhaust side, LI up/Intake side? Right? Used a carpenter's square to ensure marks are 90 degrees from head surface...

Please let me know all is right before I go rotating.

 

Yes the shop manual indicates the 'timing marks" for the camshafts (4) proper should be aligned 90 degrees to and above the valve cover surface. This assumes you also have the primary chain gears crank to idler (think that is what it is, did not look that close) have the timing marks (dots) along the one between the shaft centers and between the two shafts. basicly get them as close together as possible.
Good luck

 

Awesome! Thanks.

 

Everything seems to rotate smooth w/no binding, so I torqued the everything down.

I think I'm ready to put the timing cover on, and prep the valve covers for paint. Anybody know what rattle can color will be pretty close to factory original?

 

Well all...everything reassembled perfectly. She fired right up. Worked out some easy bugs on the shakedown drives. A/C compressor had a significant leak, so I replaced that and I had a vacuum line disconnected.

Replaced pads on all 4 corners, put new rubber on it, and sold it. I'm confident it has gone to a happy home, and will last for another 100K miles.

Thanks for all the help!