2000 catera with a V6 - Oil cooler removed,bypassed lines, give me a comment
#11
03-15-2011, 01:06 AM
For now since you guys are freaking me out, I am going to replace the oil with a 20-50w synthetic as mentioned, and I am going to keep a good watch on the temp gage since I just do normal driving ( don't go to Utah or Colorado ). if I see anything abnormal I am going to add an outside cooler from autozone, I spent about 3 hours tops removing the engine component, ie plenum, intake injectors and rail and it is kind easy but
it took me from 9 am to 6 pm to remove and install the 2 bolts by the oil filter and finish the bypass job its really a pain and don't feel like doing it again, it sounds better to remove the whole engine than those 2 bolts.
it took me from 9 am to 6 pm to remove and install the 2 bolts by the oil filter and finish the bypass job its really a pain and don't feel like doing it again, it sounds better to remove the whole engine than those 2 bolts.
If i sound like im hounding on you im not. im just trying to help you out the best i can. If you have any plans to do anything like this again, i will have to find you and slap the stupid outa you. LOL No im just kidding about that last part, just ask for some advise and i or someone else will be glad to help you out. I hope to help you out inthe future with any other issues you may have. Also dont be freaked out by what we have to say. we all just try to look out for one another.
Last edited by 92_Daddylac; 03-15-2011 at 01:08 AM.
#12
03-15-2011, 08:26 AM
as long as we are at it (avoid a overheat), make darn sure your cooling system is properly loaded with a fresh 50/50 mix.
btw, the reason the synthetic will show you some leakage is cuz its molecules are usually smaller and can pass through tiny pores where the dino oil larger molecules do not fit into the same tiny pores.
if you pay attention to all these cautions thrown at you, you will probably have the best cared-for engine in town.
.
btw, the reason the synthetic will show you some leakage is cuz its molecules are usually smaller and can pass through tiny pores where the dino oil larger molecules do not fit into the same tiny pores.
if you pay attention to all these cautions thrown at you, you will probably have the best cared-for engine in town.
.
Last edited by Stealth; 03-16-2011 at 08:56 AM.
#13
03-15-2011, 11:12 PM
Thank you guys for all the info and advise , I am glad
we have good people out there that knows their stuff and are willing to share it and also willing to slap around some fool like me for acting stupid, hahahahaha I will keep you posted.
we have good people out there that knows their stuff and are willing to share it and also willing to slap around some fool like me for acting stupid, hahahahaha I will keep you posted.
#14
03-16-2011, 09:16 AM
I thought about this a little more ...
Q: why would GM add an expensive component if the model didn't need one?
A: They wouldn't!
go back in history and take a look at all the law suits of different car makers where they "SAVED" $2 on a critical part, someone got hurt, car engines failed, electrics were made "cheap", etc .. American manufacturers as a rule of thumb do not spend any money they do not have to - on the long run, to their own demise.
logically, one can readily assume that someone at GM's drive train design looked at the oil requirements on your specific model and decided that an oil cooler was mandatory, not a luxury .. after all, customers purchasing that model even knew it was there. we got to trust the drive train designers - IMO they know what they do .. .. .. now, the bean-counters looking to save $3 over 250,000 cars, regardless of consequences, well .. .. .. that its another story!
by far, the #1 problem with Cadillac are electrics .. where the bean-counters decided to use cheap electrical contacts and continue to do so to this day .. .. read our e-ghost thread .. .. oxidation of electrical contacts is easily avoidable and several European makers avoid it and have avoided it for decades .. yet, here we are, someone (cost savings bean-counter) calculated that statistically, GM cars would cruise along for the 10 years of the warranties before oxidation took effect. savings? probably $100 to $300 per car.
when it comes to curb appeal, fashion, and looks, they will spend the money - marketing .. . .. if you cant see the part, they will ask "do we really need that?" After all, dot most buyers fall in love with the car looking at it from 20 ft away? Even I am guilty of that !
The Allante has oil coolers right up to 1992, then the coolers banished .. 1993 was a COST SAVINGS CAR as the development of the 1st Northstar went on .. the bean-counters came in .. .. but to do w/o the oil cooler, the 1993 uses different oil to handle the significant extra heat and there are rumors that not having the oil lines was probably a good thing - less connections to leak.
well, we all know how easy a Northstar can overheat if you don't keep your cooling and oil systems to specs ...
.
Q: why would GM add an expensive component if the model didn't need one?
A: They wouldn't!
go back in history and take a look at all the law suits of different car makers where they "SAVED" $2 on a critical part, someone got hurt, car engines failed, electrics were made "cheap", etc .. American manufacturers as a rule of thumb do not spend any money they do not have to - on the long run, to their own demise.
logically, one can readily assume that someone at GM's drive train design looked at the oil requirements on your specific model and decided that an oil cooler was mandatory, not a luxury .. after all, customers purchasing that model even knew it was there. we got to trust the drive train designers - IMO they know what they do .. .. .. now, the bean-counters looking to save $3 over 250,000 cars, regardless of consequences, well .. .. .. that its another story!
by far, the #1 problem with Cadillac are electrics .. where the bean-counters decided to use cheap electrical contacts and continue to do so to this day .. .. read our e-ghost thread .. .. oxidation of electrical contacts is easily avoidable and several European makers avoid it and have avoided it for decades .. yet, here we are, someone (cost savings bean-counter) calculated that statistically, GM cars would cruise along for the 10 years of the warranties before oxidation took effect. savings? probably $100 to $300 per car.
when it comes to curb appeal, fashion, and looks, they will spend the money - marketing .. . .. if you cant see the part, they will ask "do we really need that?" After all, dot most buyers fall in love with the car looking at it from 20 ft away? Even I am guilty of that !
The Allante has oil coolers right up to 1992, then the coolers banished .. 1993 was a COST SAVINGS CAR as the development of the 1st Northstar went on .. the bean-counters came in .. .. but to do w/o the oil cooler, the 1993 uses different oil to handle the significant extra heat and there are rumors that not having the oil lines was probably a good thing - less connections to leak.
well, we all know how easy a Northstar can overheat if you don't keep your cooling and oil systems to specs ...
.
Last edited by Stealth; 03-16-2011 at 09:34 AM.
#15
03-17-2011, 10:35 PM
Ok, I put the car back togheter,, test it, run it, so far for about an hour keeping an eye on everything and all its ok, everything looks good.
Running the engine at 2000rpm, the water temp gage is exactly at 1/2,
the oil pressure is 45 (the gage is 0 to 80 ) and the needle is over the
1/2 mark. When the car is at iddle, the water tem remains the same and the oil gage goes to about 25,, of course the oil is new and I only run the
car for about an hour,,, but so far so good I will keep my fingers cross.
Running the engine at 2000rpm, the water temp gage is exactly at 1/2,
the oil pressure is 45 (the gage is 0 to 80 ) and the needle is over the
1/2 mark. When the car is at iddle, the water tem remains the same and the oil gage goes to about 25,, of course the oil is new and I only run the
car for about an hour,,, but so far so good I will keep my fingers cross.
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