Cadillac CTS The mid-sized sedan that has grown the popularity of the Cadillac brand with it's low price and sleek styling

2003 CTS multiple electrical issues. Connected?

  #1  
Old 11-19-2012, 06:01 PM
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Default 2003 CTS multiple electrical issues. Connected?

Hey all, I just bought an 03 CTS manual and love it! But have a few problems to fix. Hopefully someone can help as it doesn't look like theres many posts in this dept. But here goes...

First and foremost, the power windows don't work and the dealer told me they checked it and the motors need replacement. I found it hard to believe all motors would go bad. Well I teared into it and tested everything. Pulled the motors out, took apart and checked them, all seems well, brushes good. I tested it by putting direct power and it worked. But like others say they can hear the door module clicking. No switches work any of the windows. Tried the "reboot" battery technique with no luck.

In addition to that, the radio audio sometimes cuts out like something is shorting. But flip to cd and its fine. Tuner audio comes back eventually. Wiggled and jiggled wires and harnesses and haven't found much yet.

Remote entry doesn't work. Checked fuses under rear seat and remote battery is good.

Lastly the TPS seems to not "zero" when let off the gas. The car will continue at the cruising speed without the cruise control on. Then when you step on the brake so the lights come on, it kicks down with a small jolt and starts to coast down. I have a comp program that shows the sensors and the tps seems to sit from 2-5% with no pedal. Any ideas on what to correct here or if this is normal range?

Is there a harness or connection that all these or at least the first 3 run through somewhere? Any help, thoughts, input is appreciated! Thanks all!
 
  #2  
Old 11-28-2012, 12:59 PM
Kik
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Well, Do the windows work from the individual doors or is it just from the control panel on the drivers doors that they do not work? If none of them work then I'd get the repair manual out and start looking for the common power line that supplies the windows. If the main power line goes through the drivers door and the other doors get there power from the drivers door I would look to see if maybe the control panel in the drivers door went bad.

The remote entry fuse is the one marked "TRUNK DR RELEASE" under the rear seat. It's a 10amp mini fuse I think. If this fuse is bad then replace it and the doors should work. If it's good then you may be looking at a new remote receiver.
 
  #3  
Old 12-03-2012, 09:12 AM
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first off. Pull your passenger seat out (T50 or 55 torx) 2 of those bolts on the rear braces and lift seat forward and out... then pull out the rear seat by lifting up on the seat and taking it out. Then pull some of that trim out and start lifting the carpet off of the rear passenger floor. About equal with the pillar between the doors in the center of the passenger floor is a fat bundle of wires.. in there is 5 10ga red wires with white stripes, they come together at that point and are attached with a copper crimp connection.. This is the power feed wires for ALL the windows... this connection typically corrodes and kills power to whatever windows wire is corroded. Check that first before replacing door modules and motors. And even with those wires corroded youll still get that clicking of the door modules in each door. Find the corroded bundle of wires, strip and reconnect... most likely this is your problem and the windows will work.

-----------------------------------------
remote entry, radio tuner........ theres an antenna module above the rear dome light under the headliner that controlls those items.... its the biggest pain in the *** to get to, and mine was glued down and I was not able to get it out...so i suffer with no remote entry....

Pull the rear sail panels, you will need to pop off the "airbag" caps and remove some screws... then remove the panels. They pull in towards center of car and then slide out forward... remove the rear dome light by flipping down the trap door and removing the bolt. this bolt is the ground for the antenna module. start carefully pulling the headliner down. You may need to remove the rear grab handles to get enough clearance to remove the antenna module. The module has two "rca" style cords on the passenger side of it.. and a tiny power connector on the drivers side.. CAREFUL- you can easily crease your headliner... good luck!!

The module runs about 120$ on amazon, or about a million$ at the dealer. YOU MUST HAVE YOUR KEY FOBS REPROGRAMMED AFTER REPLACING THIS MODULE... so they wont work right after replacing, untill you visit the dealer. they have to use their TechII scanner, there is no way for you to program it yourself without that tool.

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throttle positioning sensor.... try doing a throttle relearn process. look it up, you need to disconnect the battery for x amount of time. hook it up, turn key on and off a certain way.. let it run for x amount of time and so forth. this will reset the zero and full positions... follow the instructions you find exactly.
 

Last edited by voodoochikin04; 12-03-2012 at 09:17 AM.
  #4  
Old 12-04-2012, 08:25 AM
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Voodoo, you are right on the money with the windows. I already pulled the car apart last weekend because I found a lot of water under the carpet. So I pulled the seats and the rugs out. That bundle of wires was exactly what corroded. So that's all fixed.

As for the remote entry, I've already pulled that box, checked the power to it and its all good. I looked inside the box too to see if Icould see anything broke or burnt but nothing. There's a LKQ junk yard near me, ill see if there's any cts's down there as I need a few odds and end parts like seat handles and what not.

I found a post on here explaining how to program the system yourself. You're not actually programming the remotes but learning the receiver to recognize the fob. Hopefully that'll save me the dealer trip. Anyway thanks for the response, ill let you know how it goes!
 
  #5  
Old 12-04-2012, 08:17 PM
Join Date: Jun 2009
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you cannot do it yourself. it requires a tech II scanner to program it (atleast for a 2003). The only thing you can do yourself is hold lock and unlock to reSync the remote and receiver.. but if your radio is cutting out and your remotes arent working, that is the box that is the only thing that controls those. trust me on that, ive been dealing with an issue with that box for a long time and i studied the wiring diagrams and traced everything.. unfortunately my box is glued to my headliner with a gallon of rockhard resin.... dicks at gm who assembled it. I work with computers, circuit boards and components everyday... just because there is power to the unit, and there weren't any blown caps or burnt areas, doesnt mean its good. If you have power to that module and your stuff still doesnt work, there is no other unit in charge of any type of controll with those systems. Replace the module.
 
  #6  
Old 12-05-2012, 03:55 AM
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Hmm well ok then. I thought that was the learning process for the module. Alright ill see if I can find one at the junk yard. Yours is really glued? Mine has a little plastic bracket that holds it in place. It slides right out. Weird.
 
  #7  
Old 12-06-2012, 06:16 PM
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Voodoo, just to keep you updated, I've been doing some diagnosing on the drive/throttle issue, my DIC has been showing a code for the right front excessive wheel speed variation. After taking it apart, inspecting and cleaning it prior, it didn't fix. However, the code would occasionally go between current and history and watching the DIC, while the code was current it would operate normally, and while history, it would act up, strange since it seems backwards. So for s&g's I disconnected the sensor, drove and it was fine. The c1226 code was gone and the c1233 for sensor opened or shorted was current. So it is either the harness or the sensor ring itself. I'll look further into it but just wanted to let you know 1 of these is the culprit. Feels good to drive a car normally, not one thats in autopilot lol
 
  #8  
Old 12-07-2012, 08:02 AM
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yea i had the clip, but some jackass who built that part of my car poured that resin glue all over that module and encasing all the wirring harness on the headliner... jerks.
 
  #9  
Old 12-07-2012, 05:46 PM
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i wrote a big post about your sensor.. but it must not have psoted... theres a sensor in the trunk under the deck next to the sub magnet... its like a yaw sensor...had a full circle arrow on the module and like3 or 4 wire plug. unplug it, start car (you will get service stability system).. shut off car, plug back in and see if your codes about wheel sensor come back... oh yea clear your codes prior to this.
 
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