I have a 1998 SLS. It threw three codes about a month ago. They were P1350, P1375 and P1599. I got the issue fixed, I had to change a couple of the plugs on the wiring harness.

Here is the problem: I reset the codes and have driven the car now for about 3-1/2 weeks both city and highway. I have driven the car through the "Drive Cycle" about 5 times. I took the car to the inspection station about a week after I did the repairs and they said the readiness monitor was not set to ready and That I needed to do the driving cycle. Well, I just took it back yesterday for the follow-up check and I got the same problem with the readiness monitor.

The check engine light is not on and when I check the on board codes, there are none.

Can someone please help me out with this issue?

Thank you very much in advance.

 

i'm not sure if this might correct the issue, but i would disconnect the negitive battery cable for 15, 20 min and re-connect. most times this will reset all concerned.
rickyd keep us posted and/or someone might just in with another idea.

 

Thanks for the reply. I have tried that also. I left the cable off over night.

 

how did you do the drive cycle? you have to follow the steos EXACTLY !

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Driving cycle do the following:

* Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50C (122F) and within 6C (11F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
* Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
* Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
* Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
* Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
* Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
* Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
* Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.



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I started with a cold engine (It sat over night). I started the engine and let it idle with everything on I could turn on. I let it idle this way for about 2 and a half to 3 minutes. Then I used about half throttle to get to 55mph and stayed there for about 3 minutes. I then let off the throttle and coasted to about 20mph. Then I again hit about 3/4 throttle to get back up to about 55mph. I cruised for about 5 minutes like that. Then I coasted to a stop.

I got this from a couple forums and I did it exactly as described. I have driven the car about 600 miles since I cleared the codes. This was both city and highway driving.

 

It may take as many as 5 driving cycles to do this .. did you see that part?




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You may have bad PCM or degraded sensor( they don't always set codes). You may need to have pcm data scanned to diagnose whats wrong.

 

Stealth: Yes, I did see that and I did go through the drive cycle 5 times.


SlowRoll: Can someone other than the dealer do this?