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'96 Deville with 4 Alpine 12" Subs In a Wall

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  #21  
Old 03-04-2008, 01:08 PM
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 6
Default RE: '96 Deville with 4 Alpine 12" Subs In a Wall

ORIGINAL: stomper

ORIGINAL: moneymark25

Actually, the wall takes up the whole back seat area. The trunk has another wall I built that houses the amps and batteries. And I still have some trunk space left. Here's a few pictures:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y55...G/DSCN2636.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y55...G/DSCN2635.jpg
nice job .. in $$$'s, what are we talking about?

BTW, recommend you INSULATE the terminals in the trunk AMPs ..








I am sure your system bangs, but you really nned to heed the advice and clean up the trunk area some. It would be a shame to loose you car due to fire because exposed wires are running loose.

IMO if you don't mind 1. Battery boxessince you know how to build a decent wall. 2. Reroute the 1/0 GA. to be hidden. 3. Countershink your Fosgate T's into the wall.

Now most of this cosmetic, but I am sure it will help at shows down the road in terms of presentation. Nicely done @ 149db's
 
  #22  
Old 07-04-2009, 03:35 AM
Wagonized's Avatar
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Originally Posted by ucyiwork
Now most of this cosmetic, but I am sure it will help at shows down the road in terms of presentation. Nicely done @ 149db's
The OP's setup is for SPL so it makes no difference how nice it looks. Most all out SPL setups are actually ugly as hell by most peoples standards and considered unbelieveable fire hazards to most ppl in the 12 volt industry. But they get loud. Case and point I went to dbdrag world finals in 2007 with my 97 explorer which was running over 20 000 watts off of two batteries with 40 runs of 1/0 and not a single fuse in the whole stereo setup.

Also to the OP, nice to see a caddy owner into the bigger stereo setups. however you should definitely re-do your enclosure for optimum results. Any well built wall should be over 155 db with the power you have and decent woofers. You essentially just have two prefabbed dual 12 boxes stack on top of each other on the rear seat located with trim pieces made to fit around them. Thats not a wall.

You should have all four woofers mounted as far to the passenger side as possible. Two vertically, two horizontally. Build your wall right up to the b pillar on both sides and as big as possible top to bottom aswell as depth wise. Brace your box to the vehicle heavily and in as many spots as possible. Id do a minimum of 2 layers of 3/4" mdf or baltic birch ply throughout the whole box and do the baffled 4-6 layers thick with the front layer counter sinking your woofers. Then have your port on the far drivers side running all the way top to bottom. Figure out this measurement and for port width id start by making it as large as possible then shrinking the port down with 2x4s to lower your tuning. Your port depth will be the depth of the baffle which is 3-4.5". Once ur happy with the tuning (preferrably testing with a termlab pressure sensor) Id finish off your enclosure by filling in all ur screw holes with bodyfiller sanding, adding a few layers of resin to the whole box in and out, sanding again, then primer and paint if you want. Also ull gain a lot by using halved pcv over the side of your baffle to round your port. And also fiberglass the side of the wall into your b pillars for a nice smooth transition.

Build the box this way and you'll be playing with the big boys.

Heres a pic of what the final result should look like.
This wall is for 6 12s and his baffle isnt as thick because he wants higher tuning and also because that baffle is solid steel with a layer of wood on the front.


 
  #23  
Old 07-08-2009, 04:53 AM
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Congrats on the win
 
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