Hello folks-
Just in case anyone is getting ready to change the oil and oil filter in their 2016 CTS 2.0L Turbo motor, I would like to provide my hard-earned knowledge to perhaps save some time, or maybe just grief. I Googled this motor and oil changes and basically came up with nada, since most of the write-ups were regarding the V-6. I have the 2 liter LGT 4-cylinder, so I acquired an AC PF64 Oil Filter and 5 quarts of Mobil-1 Synthetic 5W-30 oil. I ran the CTS up onto a set of Rhino Ramps for enough clearance to reach the drain plug and filters. Chicken that I am, I placed a set of jack stands under the front suspension members just in case one of the ramps decided to fail. I recommend a strong flashlight or hand-held shop light for this job, since locating the oil filter is tough if it is caked with mud like mine was. The drain plug is easy enough to find, yet harder to reach unless you are small enough to have sufficient clearance to get far enough under the car. Once I had the CTS up on the ramps, with Emergency Brake set, car in Park, Jack Stands in place, key fob in the garage and rear wheels chocked, I used the following steps to get the old hot oil and oil filter out, and install a new AC PF64 Oil Filter and 5 quarts of fresh Mobil-1 5W30 Synthetic oil, leak-check and verify the oil level:
1. Remove Oil Dipstick and clean dipstick. Set dipstick aside.
2. Place a large plastic or metal catch-pan under the 15mm oil drain bolt. The drain bolt is accessible from the passenger side front door area. It is located above a suspension cross-bar on my car as seen on the attached pictures.
3. Crack open the 15mm oil drain plug using a 15mm combination or open-end wrench until dirty oil starts flowing into your catch basin. Leave it to drain and proceed to the next steps.
4. Using a cap-type oil filter wrench is easiest on this car. Confirm that your wrench fits your new oil filter. Fill your new oil filter with fresh oil, and smear the rubber O-ring at the top of your new oil filter to assist with getting the filter onto the filter stud correctly. Set the prepared filter aside.
5. Get your funnel clean and ready to use. Locate the oil fill cap on top of the engine, and remove it. Insert your clean funnel.
6. Verify that all oil has drained from the oil pan. Remove the 15mm oil drain plug and clean it. Clean the old oil from the drain pan and the cross-bar below the drain plug. Insert the clean drain plug into the oil drain hole and hand-thread the plug in until it stops. Tighten the 15mm drain plug with the combination or open-end wrench. This is where I typically use my Torque-Wrench to tighten the oil drain plug. Unfortunately, I could not locate the correct Torque setting for this drain plug, so I just snugged it up good and firm. If someone knows the correct Torque setting, please let me know.
7. At this point, I drain the catch-pan into a bucket to take to the Used Oil Recycler at the local Auto Parts store, preparing the catch-pan for the oil filter removal.
8. Place the empty catch-pan under the old oil filter, which is accessible from the driver's side of the car, about a foot away from the oil drain plug.
9. Locate the old oil filter, and remove using your cap-type oil filter wrench. Old hot oil will run down your arm at this point unless you go slow and allow the filter to drain slowly. Once the oil quits draining and the filter is removed, clean the gasket surface of the oil filter and clean the oil from the cross-bar.
10. Install your new oil filter (the one you previously filled with fresh oil and which has an oil-lubricated O-Ring) by hand until snug. Use your cap-type oil wrench to tighten the oil filter 2/3 of a turn onto the oil filter housing.
11. Clean all areas so that you can spot an oil leak if you have one at start-up.
12. Add 5 quarts of fresh 5W30 Synthetic oil of your choice into the top of the motor.
13. Install the Oil Fill cap.
14. Install the Dipstick and verify that you have an oil level above the top of the cross-hatched area on the stick. Be sure and replace dipstick after checking level.
15. Remove Jack-Stands if you use them. Do not want to forget them and have an ugly accident if you get in a hurry after starting the car and back off the ramps with the stands in place.
16. Start the car and verify that you do not have any Oil-related alarms. Look under the car for oil leaks. Stop motor and fix the leak(s) if you happen to find one. Yeah, I would re-install the Jack Stands if I found a leak, but I be chicken.
17. Assuming no leaks, close hood.
18. Remove chocks and back car off of ramps.
19. Test drive to get engine up to normal operating temperature, then park car.
20. Wait 30 minutes and verify oil level is correct. Add additional oil if needed to get to top of the cross-hatched area on the Dipstick.
21. Re-Set your Oil Life Calculator to Zero.

I hope this helps somebody. Even if only one person
Amanda

 

Thanks for sharing

 

Great guide for doing an oil change on my vehicle. Until my warranty is still in effect I prefer to allow the dealer to do the suggested service. My thinking is that the manufacturer can never refuse to honor a covered repair because of my negligence of following approved service procedures. Thanks though. Will use your comments as a guide when I finally get to do it.