Hi Tech-Savvy,

I’m very sorry to hear that you are experiencing a shuddering concern with your vehicle. Though, you’re awaiting feedback from the forum community, don’t hesitate send us a private message should you need our assistance or if you have any questions. We would be happy to communicate with your dealership if you do take your vehicle back in again. Please keep us updated!

Sincerely,

Shane M.
Cadillac Customer Care

 

Took it to the Cadillac dealer....I let them know I suspected torque converter. sent me home in a new caddy, and called today to say they had already replaced it Couldn't ask for faster quality service. My wife will def drive a caddy from now on. Our buying experience was also the best we ever had.
It was Wagner Cadillac in Tyler tx

 

If you are having a problem making it act up to show service guy....go up a slight incline at about 50mph......then slowly ease into throttle .....mine was jerking pretty hard. The tech guy said it wasn't doing anything, but I could make it buck like crazy. I took service manager for a ride.

 

GBRAD: You mentioned there was a TSB on this issue. Where can I find that?

 

Hey gbrad - can you say what the service bulletin number is or any other details about it? I just called a Cadillac dealer in my area (Michigan) and they couldn't find a service bulletin for my 2012 CTS related to the torque converter. It is experiencing the same shudder issue as described in this thread. Any info appreciated!

 

Hey there - with some help, I have a link to the service bulletin that I believe describes this shudder issue: PI0700B
I have attached it as pdf and here's the direct link: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...70867-5448.pdf

 

Hello All!
I have been on this site for years and found lots of good answers to questions I have had, but never posted until now. (thanks)
Okay this may sound silly as I have 150,000 mile on my CTS. I am very happy with the car but I am starting to have some issues.
So it shudders under a light acceleration but only after its warm.
It feels like transmission slip and I was thinking torque convertor but only does it when its warm.
I am not getting any check engine or any other warning lights.
I have changed my trans fluid and pan gasket. Also plugs and all 6 coils.
I also drilled out the EGR valve to slightly larger holes per a thread I found on here.
I took it to a transmission shop and they said it was not the transmission but that I had a misfire code in the ECM.
I believe that may have been created when I was trying to diagnose the problem I had disconnected each of the coils to determine if idle improved or got worse.
That obviously was prior to replacing the coils and that little procedure didn't produce noticeable difference. But I replaced them just due to the mileage on the car.
So I was also told that the accelerator pedal can cause this and the signal will cause the car to jerk a bit.
However it seems to me that a quick open and closing of the throttle body would not give me the hard slamming that I get.
So I'm leaning toward bad TQ convertor but thats a lot of work if its not the problem, as I will be doing the repair myself since I am far outside of any warranty.
Any other thoughts on what it could possible be before I dive into dropping the transmission on a AWD coupe?

 

I went to two different dealers for a repair quote - each came up with 6000$ to replace the torque converter and the transmission.
What I don't understand is, where is this happening, why is it happening, and what is the noise?
Stan
Farmington CT

 

I'm suffering with the same problem... How did you make out. Was the replacement torque converter the answer????

Stan
Farmington CT
sekjr@juno.com

 

so a while back I discovered the problem and posted on here in a separate thread. Anyway before you pay for a new transmission or torque converter try this and it will cost you like under $25. I assume your cars are also AWD. And on the passenger side there is a small transfer case only holds like 1 quart of gear oil. The drain is easy and uses a 3/8 square drive plug. It’s a bitch to get to the full plug out it’s the same type but I needed to buy a belt tensioner to get it out. Not much room. Drain the old oil as the GM approved fluid I also added a Amsoil friction additive and it fixed the problem completely. I couldn’t believe the difference. Good luck and do this before paying anyone to do anything. It’s worth the effort and cheap just to make sure it’s not the same problem.