Hello, sorry about my last post,,, I meant RIM,, not DIC. That's what I get for
doing 2 things at the same time. Yes,, I am interested in the thought the
RIM is the culprit. My question is, can I test this with a volt meter? I found
one on EBAY,,,used. I know that new is best, but I could'nt find the part on
gmpartsdirect.com. The ebay one is about $70, including S/H. The BAT cables
look to be in pretty good shape, and the fuse boxes are in great shape,
appearance wise. There are no add-ons, or modifications that I can see,
and I have not done any thing myself. I am going to talk to the mechanic
here today, and run the idea's I've been explained here, and hopefully, there
can be a solution that's relatively inexpensive. (like that's gonna happen...LOL )
Again, thanks,,,It is nice to see so many people helping people..wish more
of the world were like this forum.

 

Hello again, OK, just talked to my friend, the local
mechanic. He agreed that the RIM would effect all
the things I'm experiencing with the car. He gave me
a small diagram off a website he pays to use I think
it's called "shop key". He told me using a volt meter,
to plug into pin 2 (top row 2nd from left) on the connection
under the dash, and measure normal voltage. He was'nt
sure what that voltage was (4-5 volts maybe) and then,
when the DIC starts freaking out, there should be a change
in the voltage, then un-plug the RIM. If the voltage goes back
to normal, then the RIM is the culprit.
Does this sound right? If it is something I should check before
purchasing a RIM, then I'll sure try it, or anything at this point.
How do you get to the RIM? Someone told me to go thru the
trunk,,,? Where is it, and how should I get to it to un-plug/Replace?
And again, thanks for all the info.
Darren

 

Mystery of the cluster going dark on ignition and sometimes during driving solved and battery no longer dies. I swapped a RIM and the ECCM which are located behind the back seat on the lower right hand side. I went throught the trunk instead of taking out the seat. Easy peasy. When i changed the RIM my cluster still had issues but when i changed the ECCM...all has been well for a couple of days. Another important thing you must do is CLEAR ALL CODES IN THE CLUSTER. I did this when i changed the two modules. To be honest clearing the codes alone couldve of solved all my problems..but ill never know. So clear your codes first before changing modules.

Instructions....

DTC display; 1998-2004 Seville and 2000-2005 Deville
by JimD

Use the 3 switches located to the right of the Driver Information Center (DIC) to activate and respond to the OBD prompts on the DIC.

ON/OFF = YES

INFO RESET = NO
INFO DOWN or INFO UP = manual toggle


Ignition ON, acknowledge any warning messages; press ON/OFF and INFO UP together for 2 to 3 seconds. Everything in front of you lights up for 4 or 5 seconds, then you will see:

Display shows "ALL?"

Answering YES will display "ALL CODES?"
Answering YES will run automatic test sequence and display codes, if any. Systems and codes will scroll faster than I am able to read them and write them; not to worry.
"ALL CLEAR CODES?" will display at the end of the automatic test. If you are satisfied you have the information you need, answer YES to clear/erase all error codes.
Answering "ALL?" with INFO DOWN will toggle systems test manually in order.
Answering "ALL?" with INFO UP will toggle system test manually in reverse order.
Press INFO RESET to reset DIC to "ALL?" to start again.
Ignition OFF to exit.

 

in addition to clearing the codes, also removing the moduels, cleaning the contacts and re-installing same modules could have done it .. hope you kept the old modules if the core charge was small.


.

 

LOOKS LIKE YA'LL GOT THINGS UNDER CONTROLL.... i like it.....
thats what its all about. all of you, best of holidays.... be safe
rick

 

Alright, I have had my DeVille for almost 2 years now. I love this car to death. Nothing like flying down the highway at 80mph on what feels like clouds. Here is what is happening to mine:

In the winter, when it gets below ~30* F, Weird things start to happen. I have recently compiled a list, because it is super annoying and I end up having to disconnect my battery where ever I go in fear that i will be stranded.

List of Problems:
Battery Randomly dies
Service Security Light
Theft attempted light
service airbag light
traction control light
lights on dash, get dim, get bright, gauges act like they are not working
radio turns on off and gets dim bright
trunk/fuel door buttons do not work
parking brake does not disengage when put in drive
security system sounds when starting the car
security system sounds when opening the car door when car is turned off
Car rides rough as hell

Everything listed happens when it gets cold out, randomly and with no rhyme or reason. I have pulled the codes and came back with p0601. But reading what you are telling me, i am leading towards the conclusion that it is the RIM. What tends me to lean towards this is there is a whole about the size of a quarter rusted under my battery. sounds like the perfect place for some moisture to get in!! It is almost midnight now so i will be looking in this tomorrow. I have purchased a PCM for the car, because that is what the code P0601 is. I was planning on getting it programmed tomorrow morning, but thinking I will wait and try something less expensive first.

What I want to know is what do you suggest I do before i go get this PCM reprogrammed at the dealer?

 

It sounds like a short somewhere, these cars have bad grounds..id check them all before buying a PCM. My ghost have been gone for over a year since i read this thread and caddy is still running strong. I did save all my modules so i will keep and clean them, just in case.

 

i got to tell yall, if you are reading this post and have E-GHOSTS running your interior instead of you.... for under $200. change the R.I.M.

 

Changed out my RIM. Have not had any ghosts for 2 days. $25 for used RIM at salvage yard. I love you!