e-ghosts, the ELECTRICAL problems

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Old 03-25-2007, 02:33 AM
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Default e-ghosts, the ELECTRICAL problems



the Allanté has a battery behind the passenger seat and the wiring goes to a red box, a buss-bar enclosed, just behind the headlights and next to the water pump. an important spot to check for a good connection. dimming of headlights is a common problem that can easily start here.

this may also apply to other Cadillacs with batteries under the back seat.

"The term "buss-bar" means a "common" connection, where wires all connected to the same circuit can come and go. "Junction block" is another term often used to describe this function."





the electrical ghost ...

i put toghether this info about 5 years ago. it has been invaluable to those that read it and heed.
keep in mind, metal & oxidation and all this makes a lot of sense.
The article recommends any grease including Vaseline. IMO, Di-electric, dielectric is by far,
the very best choice.
however, i been known to use any grease including WD40 when facing
a connector, oxidation and bare metal.

Seems that electrical problems and such ghosts are abundant in our American design electrical
systems (not just GM, but all of the big three), where CHEAP, non-gold-plated contacts are the
rule. Here are some hints from marine people that surely know how to deal with moisture and
corrosion of electrical contacts that in our case would rend seat, window, and electrical harnesses
to mention just a few, useless . If you live in desert country like Arizona and never wash the car
with water, maybe you can skip this, otherwise it may apply.

4WD American trucks, such as the Ford Bronco came with waterproof DIELECTRIC grease on
many of its electrical contacts since it was expected that such a vehicle would be exposed to
lots of moisture during its rough life. Gold-plated would have been much better, but we got
what we got.

How many owners resort to tarnex to remove such oxidation from switches and contacts?
After you clean the contacts, you might want to consider waterproofing the contacts.
Ford has such a product, I dont know if GM has it. Read below for additional solutions.


The following do***ent in its entirety, is available at
www.islandnet.com/robb/marine.html
and it is shareware.
it was there in 2002 and i just checked - its there TODAY.

I have borrowed a couple of paragraphs.
copyright © 1990, 1996 by Robb Zuk, Salt Spring Island, Canada. All rights reserved.



**Wiring & Connections**
* contact surfaces of mechanical connections are cleaned and coated with moisture resisting sealant before being put together. no frayed or cracked insulation (check bilge and engine compartment)
* 12 Volt system leaks less than 5 mA of current (test) battery switch connections clean and sealed for each **on** position, voltage drop is less than 0.5 Volts in battery switch, while engine is cranking fuses have clean, tight, sealed contacts
* every electrical system is do***ented in diagrams or schematics

**contact surfaces of mechanical connections are clean and coated with moisture resisting sealant before being put together**
* Note: Sealant does not need to conduct electricity. When you force two clean and sealed metal surfaces together with enough pressure, high spots in the metals press against each other and force the sealant aside. In this way, metal-to-metal contacts occur all across a connection, with *doughnuts* of sealant surrounding each contact area. Use petroleum jelly (Vaseline), water resistant grease, or a specialty product such as Lanacote for sealant. When sealing light bulb bases, replaceable fuses and other friction connections, rock the connection back and forth a few times to create good metal to metal contact while squeezing the sealant aside. Applying sealant to the exterior of existing connections will help prevent deterioration but may not last long. By sealing the interior surfaces of a connection before you put it together, you get a long lasting barrier to the moist marine environment.

**conductors not kinked or bent sharply
Sharp bends will fatigue metal which eventually can cause fracturing. (Loss of electrical flow)

other related quotes, names withheld

My car occaisionally "flashes" at me... dash going dark; no effect on radio or car performance.

About a year ago, the "flash" lasted a few minutes. I pulled in at a rest area and could not find
a fault. I started pulling and checking fuses (under the ashtray); all were good.
But when I restarted, the dash was back. I think a fuse was loose or not making good contact.

Since reseating all those fuses, I don't recall a "flash". Not certain if that's the answer, but it's a cheap check...
I had a simular problem on my 91'. It would only miss every now and then. After spending for a tuneup etc.
After being told it was probably a bad injector, it was acutally a bad connection, where someone had, had
the system apart before, causing a drop in amps, corrected that and also found loose ground connections.
it fixed the miss, and I have also not seen a low AC reading now for about two weeks. Bottom line correction
the ground probably fixed more than I had realized. The bad electrical connection on the injector setup
cleared the rest.


Now about electrical connections. I started my Cadi to go to lunch the other day and got a low
oil pressure warning. Panic. Started it twice again and it went away on third start. Also noted no
rise in the Oil Pressure indication when I had the warning. I then recalled that I had noticed the
oil pressure jumping a couple of bars over the past few months but nothing I considered serious.
Got under the car that night and removed and reinstalled the Oil Pressure sensor connector (no
small feat) a couple of times and all has been well since.





 
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