1990 cadillac deville; misfires due to non-functioning injector
#12
05-14-2009, 12:02 AM
Well I hooked the battery back up, and restarted it. Ran it for a minute or so, and even turned it around so it was easier to access the engine. I pulled the codes afterwards and got e52 7.0. Nothing else came up. It was still running rough and seemed to be idling high.
Last edited by detra319; 05-14-2009 at 12:09 AM.
#13
05-22-2009, 10:46 PM
Been out of town on vacation, but got back and I was wanting to take a crack at this car again tomorrow. I haven't ran it for more than a minute or so, and didn't take it for a test drive or anything. Should I run the car for a longer period of time, or move along to something else?
Thanks for any help!
Thanks for any help!
#14
06-30-2009, 01:13 PM
OK so sorry I took so long to check back on this. I have ran some more tests on this car since my last post, so I figured I would give an update if anyone is still interested. I cannot get this car to stop misfiring.
I changed an o-ring on an injector and also switched out two bad plugs that had cracks in the porcelain that I did not notice. This has gotten rid of the hiss and the rough idle problem that I have been experiencing. I then used the self-diagnostic tool to pull the codes, and checked with a friend to make sure I am doing it properly. The only code that I have gotten is e52 which is basically telling me that I have no error codes showing up, from what I can figure out. I have switched fuel injectors around to make sure that I have a new one on the bad cylinder, and it still does not get rid of the problem. I have checked the vacuum hoses to confirm that there are no cracks, and I cannot find any on the lines that I have traced out. I have used carb cleaner in the throttle body, and made sure to clean those surfaces out. I still keep getting the same problem.
Something I have noticed that is interesting is that sometimes when I drive the car it will not misfire at all. I drove it to work the other day (about 5 miles) and most of the way home without it missing at all. It started to miss again once I got off the interstate. Ever since that point though, it has missed every time that I turn the car on.
So I am kinda asking for some direction as to where I should go. I am not that good of a mechanic so I don't know that much about the electrical side of things, but could there be a problem with a wire going to the injectors? Could a sensor be causing this problem? I am just trying to find something else to do so I can hopefully figure out what is wrong by process of elimination. Should I pull the injectors and have them tested in the shop to check flow? Where would be the best route to go. I am a poor college student, so cheap is normally better :P
Thanks again for any help!
Detra
I changed an o-ring on an injector and also switched out two bad plugs that had cracks in the porcelain that I did not notice. This has gotten rid of the hiss and the rough idle problem that I have been experiencing. I then used the self-diagnostic tool to pull the codes, and checked with a friend to make sure I am doing it properly. The only code that I have gotten is e52 which is basically telling me that I have no error codes showing up, from what I can figure out. I have switched fuel injectors around to make sure that I have a new one on the bad cylinder, and it still does not get rid of the problem. I have checked the vacuum hoses to confirm that there are no cracks, and I cannot find any on the lines that I have traced out. I have used carb cleaner in the throttle body, and made sure to clean those surfaces out. I still keep getting the same problem.
Something I have noticed that is interesting is that sometimes when I drive the car it will not misfire at all. I drove it to work the other day (about 5 miles) and most of the way home without it missing at all. It started to miss again once I got off the interstate. Ever since that point though, it has missed every time that I turn the car on.
So I am kinda asking for some direction as to where I should go. I am not that good of a mechanic so I don't know that much about the electrical side of things, but could there be a problem with a wire going to the injectors? Could a sensor be causing this problem? I am just trying to find something else to do so I can hopefully figure out what is wrong by process of elimination. Should I pull the injectors and have them tested in the shop to check flow? Where would be the best route to go. I am a poor college student, so cheap is normally better :P
Thanks again for any help!
Detra
#15
06-30-2009, 03:30 PM
So I changed the wires today, and restarted the car. It is really idling rough now. I put it into gear to adjust how it sat (was on a small hill), and it started to race after I put it into gear. I moved it 10 ft or so, and put it into park. It then revved very high, prob 4-5k rpms, but then dropped back to its rough idle. It would rev a bit, then slowly idle down, rev a bit more, and repeat. I did notice a hiss that I can't remember hearing as well. I went back through and checked everything I have installed so far, and nothing appears to be out of place or installed incorrectly.
Now I am getting stumped. Should I risk the drive to autozone to have them pull the codes?
Now I am getting stumped. Should I risk the drive to autozone to have them pull the codes?
ambient is dry, damp, cold, hot ? ? ?
that (bold) is a sign of the TPS ...
if I was you, tonight, in the dark, start the engine, open the hood and see if you are getting electrical arcs anywhere around the engine compartment.
IF no arcing, I would change out all the injectors, plugs and wires that havent been changed .. and if you changed them test them to make sure they didnt get damaged .. damage of wires or plugs is easy
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#16
06-30-2009, 04:29 PM
ahha!
Sorry this is so confusing, I was having a large amount symptoms that I have finally cleared up. So what I did was finally talked to an old mechanic friend of my father's and he gave me some advice. With the car running, I took a long screwdriver and stuck it on the plastic part of the injector to check to see if I could hear a clicking noise. I was able to determine that it was not firing, and that the other 7 injectors were firing. I then borrowed something that my friend called a noid light, and hooked it to the injector and the battery. When we used the noid light to send a pulse to the injector directly, it would fire. That led us to believe that somewhere between the computer and the injector something was incorrect. I called the local junkyard, got the computer for 45 bucks, installed it and wa la! No misfire, life is good again.
So...for anyone that helped, or read my rambling posts, thanks a lot for the help! I will try to prowl these forums and provide some help to other members since you guys were so nice to me, and I'm glad that I learned so much in this process. Thanks again peeps!
Detra
aka Adam
So...for anyone that helped, or read my rambling posts, thanks a lot for the help! I will try to prowl these forums and provide some help to other members since you guys were so nice to me, and I'm glad that I learned so much in this process. Thanks again peeps!
Detra
aka Adam
#17
06-30-2009, 06:03 PM
I have a 1990 cadillac deville northstar. Recently it started to run rough, and was shaking pretty bad. Decided to do some routine maintenance, since it was my father's car before me. I checked the plugs, and found black soot on cylinder #8, so I changed all the plugs. I ended up getting the same result, a sooted up plug on #8. I tried a wire from a dif cylinder, and got the same results. I then decided to pray, so I changed the air filter, no luck, then the fuel filter, no luck. I then went the more expensive route, and changed the fuel injector on the cylinder, and again got the same results. I then changed the coil, and got no results.
I'm getting to the point where I am stumped. I have talked to my dad, and he gave me a few more facts. The battery has had to be changed 3 times in the last two years, because the cells fail. The battery would die if you leave the car for 4-5 days and not drive it, and it would need to be charged/jumped before it would start.
So...could it be that this battery drain is messing with the ohms and making the fuel injector misfire? Or where else should I start to look? I have spent alot of time working on this, and am trying to get some new ideas. I can change alot of things on cars, but I have never messed with the fuel/electrical system on a car until now. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Detra319
..........
mod edit title
I'm getting to the point where I am stumped. I have talked to my dad, and he gave me a few more facts. The battery has had to be changed 3 times in the last two years, because the cells fail. The battery would die if you leave the car for 4-5 days and not drive it, and it would need to be charged/jumped before it would start.
So...could it be that this battery drain is messing with the ohms and making the fuel injector misfire? Or where else should I start to look? I have spent alot of time working on this, and am trying to get some new ideas. I can change alot of things on cars, but I have never messed with the fuel/electrical system on a car until now. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Detra319
..........
mod edit title
Sorry this is so confusing, I was having a large amount symptoms that I have finally cleared up. So what I did was finally talked to an old mechanic friend of my father's and he gave me some advice. With the car running, I took a long screwdriver and stuck it on the plastic part of the injector to check to see if I could hear a clicking noise. I was able to determine that it was not firing, and that the other 7 injectors were firing. I then borrowed something that my friend called a noid light, and hooked it to the injector and the battery. When we used the noid light to send a pulse to the injector directly, it would fire. That led us to believe that somewhere between the computer and the injector something was incorrect. I called the local junkyard, got the computer for 45 bucks, installed it and wa la! No misfire, life is good again.
So...for anyone that helped, or read my rambling posts, thanks a lot for the help! I will try to prowl these forums and provide some help to other members since you guys were so nice to me, and I'm glad that I learned so much in this process. Thanks again peeps!
Detra
aka Adam
So...for anyone that helped, or read my rambling posts, thanks a lot for the help! I will try to prowl these forums and provide some help to other members since you guys were so nice to me, and I'm glad that I learned so much in this process. Thanks again peeps!
Detra
aka Adam
MY guess is that your old CPU was just fine. Did you ever clean and di-electric the connector ?
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Last edited by Stealth; 06-30-2009 at 06:06 PM.
#19
11-04-2009, 04:21 PM
New set of fun problems..
So I am looking for some advice on this beautiful cadillac. After all the frustration that I went through before, we drove it for 3 weeks or so and the head gasket went out on it. It was leaking fluid very badly from somewhere on the backside of the engine. Well, I took the million sensors off, all the way down past the cylinder head. I got down to the cylinder head, and it appears that two of the bolts on the exhaust manifold side of the head were broken. Well, I had those drilled out, but now I seem to be running into the problem of where to find some head bolts for this car. I tried direct through the local dealership, and they can find the internal head bolts, but not the external side. I was wondering if anyone had some advice as to where to find these or maybe a replacement? I am just a shadetree mechanic, so if you need me to clarify what I am talking about, I will definitely try, I just don't all the proper terminology. Thanks again!
#20
11-04-2009, 10:09 PM
So I am looking for some advice on this beautiful cadillac. After all the frustration that I went through before, we drove it for 3 weeks or so and the head gasket went out on it. It was leaking fluid very badly from somewhere on the backside of the engine. Well, I took the million sensors off, all the way down past the cylinder head. I got down to the cylinder head, and it appears that two of the bolts on the exhaust manifold side of the head were broken. Well, I had those drilled out, but now I seem to be running into the problem of where to find some head bolts for this car. I tried direct through the local dealership, and they can find the internal head bolts, but not the external side. I was wondering if anyone had some advice as to where to find these or maybe a replacement? I am just a shadetree mechanic, so if you need me to clarify what I am talking about, I will definitely try, I just don't all the proper terminology. Thanks again!
i'm sure the info is somewhere in the thread, but what is this beautiful Cadillac?
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