No dash lights and car wont start.
#1
No dash lights and car wont start.
98 Deville De Elegance
I replaced my blower motor. On my install the blower wouldn't go in as one unit. I opted to drop the fan in the duct where it would be installed and push it on by reaching through on the other side from the interior after removing the dash.
Being very careful I removed everything, & reinstalled.
Got everything about 90% finished, all but the driver’s side. I had to still tuck away the large clear tube, and the large wire harness with the # 7 or 8 size bolt in the middle.
Started the car I was so happy. I cleared out error the codes shut down restarted. Checked for codes & played with the air to make sure that everything was well.
Shut down the car to finish.
I really struggled getting the large hose in place, which happens to be near a huge grouping of wires running from the front to the rear of the car. I didn’t mess with them aside from maybe my hand or the hose slightly brushing them.
Finished tightening the steering wheel column, this is where I know I messed up. When I tightened off the four bolts the second one furthest back on the left pinched the wire coming off large wire harness with the # 7 or 8 size bolt in the middle that runs up into the bottom of the steering wheel column.
The (Grey) damaged wire is grouped with 7 other wires (Pink, Purple, Green, Gray, White, Black, & Pink).
I repaired the Grey wire, but my car won’t start
When I try to start it the dashboard does not light up like it should. It doesn’t try to turn over.
When the key is in the running position the windows don’t work, the stereo doesn’t work, the headlights aren’t on, the hazards and the directional’s don’t flash the only light visible in the instrument panel are the gears and the windshield wipers work.
When the key is all the way back the windows work and so does the radio.
I checked the engine compartment and the trunk fuses. I tried swapping the relays to see if one was bad. Also I disconnected the negative and positive battery terminals. I’m at a loss. Please help.
#2
In order to fix the wiring problem(s) that you have you will need a ohm meter, voltage meter, and the wiring diagram in the factory service manual. Check with your library for a copy of the service manual.
To check for a break in the insulation, disconnect the connector at each end of the wire and using the ohm meter check each conductor to all other conductors in the harness at the connector. Also check each conductor to ground. If the ohm meter gives a reading other than infinite, examine that conductor for breaks in the insulation.
Check each conductor for conductivity by connecting the ohm meter to each end of the wire. If the ohm meter does not give a zero reading examine the wire for break in the conductor.
Then review the wiring diagram and use a voltage tester to test the wires that carry voltage at the connector farther from the battery and with the connector toward the battery connected. In some cases you may need to turn the ignition on with the vehicle off. Test the ground wires to ground.
The wiring diagrams will also indicate which fuse or relay to check.
Good luck.
To check for a break in the insulation, disconnect the connector at each end of the wire and using the ohm meter check each conductor to all other conductors in the harness at the connector. Also check each conductor to ground. If the ohm meter gives a reading other than infinite, examine that conductor for breaks in the insulation.
Check each conductor for conductivity by connecting the ohm meter to each end of the wire. If the ohm meter does not give a zero reading examine the wire for break in the conductor.
Then review the wiring diagram and use a voltage tester to test the wires that carry voltage at the connector farther from the battery and with the connector toward the battery connected. In some cases you may need to turn the ignition on with the vehicle off. Test the ground wires to ground.
The wiring diagrams will also indicate which fuse or relay to check.
Good luck.
#3
Ohm meters & voltage regulators connectors, oh my!
Thanks for getting back to me.
OMFG!
What have I done? I’m dizzy from trying to come to terms with what you’re telling me & comprehend.
So I just don’t know when to quit. I didn’t want to, but today I start pulling out the dash to make this as painless as possible who knows what’s going on back there.
I’m charging the battery. It is beat after all this mess.
I picked up two new relays for the front engine compartment. They are for the ignition and accessories. One of them had a little black or gray dust in it. That dust bothered me.
I would have checked them but I don’t really know where I should touch off with my probes to check for continuity without causing more damage. I’m guessing at the connectors where they would go into the harness to secure the relays, or am I suppose to take the relay apart and check on the back side? No one I asked knew.
Will keep you posted.
OMFG!
What have I done? I’m dizzy from trying to come to terms with what you’re telling me & comprehend.
So I just don’t know when to quit. I didn’t want to, but today I start pulling out the dash to make this as painless as possible who knows what’s going on back there.
I’m charging the battery. It is beat after all this mess.
I picked up two new relays for the front engine compartment. They are for the ignition and accessories. One of them had a little black or gray dust in it. That dust bothered me.
I would have checked them but I don’t really know where I should touch off with my probes to check for continuity without causing more damage. I’m guessing at the connectors where they would go into the harness to secure the relays, or am I suppose to take the relay apart and check on the back side? No one I asked knew.
Will keep you posted.
#4
Try to start simple. Get 12v test light at parts store ( under 20.00) connect clip to a good ground and with key in run touch probe end to metal terminals of fuses.See if all fuses in fuse box light test light when touching both ends of fuse. If it doesn't replace it or post what its for. You may have only blown a fuse.
#7
Solved
Thanks for the help.
I did get the car running thanks to you.
THANK YOU, Thank You, Thank you.
I might come back to this tread to thank you.
You saved me. Things could have gotten very bad for me here. With out my job I couldn't buy parts for my car. HaHaHa!
I did get the car running thanks to you.
THANK YOU, Thank You, Thank you.
I might come back to this tread to thank you.
You saved me. Things could have gotten very bad for me here. With out my job I couldn't buy parts for my car. HaHaHa!
#8
aint that something?
you need the car to get you to your job so that you can earn money to fix the car that will get you to your job to earn more money to fix the car tomorrow! i love the system !!!
how about telling us what the problem was?
it will help the next guy ...
.
Last edited by Stealth; 04-24-2010 at 08:50 AM.
#9
HEY-NOW!!!
@Stealth I would have to say that the problem was those cheap fuse testers that come with some fuse packs when you buy fuses. Just throw that piece of junk in the trash. I say that because the 1st time I ran through the fuse block testing that was what I used. Everything tested fine, but it wasn’t. So I guess it was @slowroll's suggestion: "Get 12v test light at parts store...." I had one already so i just went through & checked with that. Sure enough I found it. -SideNote- I was a MAD man trying to get that thing running buying all kinds of BIG fuses & relays. I still have the Deville. She is parked though with a bad head gasket. I'm looking for a shop that knows NorthStars up here in CT or the TriState area. Sadly these cars haven’t held there value, so I am about to go upside down in this thing getting it back on the road. I guess it’s a labor of love. I love Silky (my 98) she is so smooth & clean.... I just picked up a 97 (it was a gift) I was hoping to be able to use for some interior parts. But my 98s interior is like new compared to the 97, so that idea is out. My son likes the 97 so I guess I will fix it up right while I drive it for the next few months. Then gift it to him once I get my 98 straight.
@Stealth I would have to say that the problem was those cheap fuse testers that come with some fuse packs when you buy fuses. Just throw that piece of junk in the trash. I say that because the 1st time I ran through the fuse block testing that was what I used. Everything tested fine, but it wasn’t. So I guess it was @slowroll's suggestion: "Get 12v test light at parts store...." I had one already so i just went through & checked with that. Sure enough I found it. -SideNote- I was a MAD man trying to get that thing running buying all kinds of BIG fuses & relays. I still have the Deville. She is parked though with a bad head gasket. I'm looking for a shop that knows NorthStars up here in CT or the TriState area. Sadly these cars haven’t held there value, so I am about to go upside down in this thing getting it back on the road. I guess it’s a labor of love. I love Silky (my 98) she is so smooth & clean.... I just picked up a 97 (it was a gift) I was hoping to be able to use for some interior parts. But my 98s interior is like new compared to the 97, so that idea is out. My son likes the 97 so I guess I will fix it up right while I drive it for the next few months. Then gift it to him once I get my 98 straight.
#10
so what was the problem ?? I lm haveing the same issue
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