Picture of the engine compartment. This would be after I made some upgrades to the ignition: Accel Super Coil, Accel Ignition Module, new cap and rotor, Magnecor 8.5mm plug wires (if you've never heard of Magnecor, please, please go to their website and become educated on spark plugs wires), new AC Delco spark plugs. Also done at this point was the upgraded main wiring, but you can't see any of it because I hid it. I routed all of it along the factory locations. In fact, other than the connector I used to connect the  batt wire to the alternator, and the multiple high end connectors I have attached to the battery (I bought one with both top and side posts, all of which I'm utilizing, and I could almost use another set of posts I have so many wires attached to it anymore), you can't even tell the wiring isn't stock. I should probably just set up a distribution center for all of the addon wiring). Obviously added a K&N air filter, and I started messing with the intake by removing the piece small restrictive pieces that connect over to the fender. I've since removed even the piece that I put the sticker on, and that was apparently functioning as the main sound baffle because it really opened up the sound. I don't know that I've gotten any performance gains, but it sounds much better. And you can see in the right side the one place that the car has cancer, where the strut tower meets the wheel well. I can't tell you how many '85-'93 Cadillac's I've seen with rust in those locations. Must have been a design flaw. It's been there since I bought the car, and I still need to get it fixed. And midwest winters are not being kind to it.
Picture of the engine compartment. This would be after I made some upgrades to the ignition: Accel Super Coil, Accel Ignition Module, new cap and rotor, Magnecor 8.5mm plug wires (if you've never heard of Magnecor, please, please go to their website and become educated on spark plugs wires), new AC Delco spark plugs. Also done at this point was the upgraded main wiring, but you can't see any of it because I hid it. I routed all of it along the factory locations. In fact, other than the connector I used to connect the batt wire to the alternator, and the multiple high end connectors I have attached to the battery (I bought one with both top and side posts, all of which I'm utilizing, and I could almost use another set of posts I have so many wires attached to it anymore), you can't even tell the wiring isn't stock. I should probably just set up a distribution center for all of the addon wiring). Obviously added a K&N air filter, and I started messing with the intake by removing the piece small restrictive pieces that connect over to the fender. I've since removed even the piece that I put the sticker on, and that was apparently functioning as the main sound baffle because it really opened up the sound. I don't know that I've gotten any performance gains, but it sounds much better. And you can see in the right side the one place that the car has cancer, where the strut tower meets the wheel well. I can't tell you how many '85-'93 Cadillac's I've seen with rust in those locations. Must have been a design flaw. It's been there since I bought the car, and I still need to get it fixed. And midwest winters are not being kind to it.
0 2012/11/05 00:21:36
A closeup of the opera lamps I added. I went to great pains to get them installed as close to the OEM location as possible while also lining them up with the sail panel emblems and having them look good, with... mixed results. Turned out the sail panel emblems had been removed at some point and put back on or replaced, and whoever did it didn't get them in the exact same location on both sides of the cars. So despite installing the opera lamps in exactly the same location on both sides, this side doesn't quite look right to me. If I ever pull the emblems off again (I replaced every single emblem on the car with NOS emblems right after I bought it, since most were faded, damaged, missing, etc.) I might change the location to line them up with the opera lamps a little better. One thing to be aware of if you ever use these opera lamps (they're not OEM, made by GEM I think), the covers absolutely hate the sun! They looks pretty good for 6-8 months, by the end of a year they had begun to yellow, and eventually were so bad that with the blue EL paper that I used to light them, the lights looks like a sickly green at night. I've since remedied this since I happened to have a set of OEM covers off of another Cadillac (I have no clue what year, I'd had them for awhile from when I was trying to piece together a full set of OEM lamps before giving up and using aftermarket ones), and those covers were a very close match to the aftermarket ones. They were slightly narrower (like an 1/8", barely noticeable), about a half inch longer and don't protrude out nearly as far. There was plenty of extra material at the top and bottom of the aftermarket housings, so a few minutes with a dremel had the OEM covers fitting into the housings snug as a bug, and since they would snap in like the old ones, I "glued" them in with some clear synthetic caulk. It should hold them in tight enough that they won't fall out, it's completely clear so you can't see it unless you stick your face right in the lamp and look for it, and unless you again stick you face right in the lamp, you can't tell that the covers weren't meant for these lamps and that I've done some work with a dremel. I haven'e take any pictures yet, but they look much better with the OEM covers, which considering they're 20-30 years old and still look brand new, shouldn't have any issues with sun damage.
A closeup of the opera lamps I added. I went to great pains to get them installed as close to the OEM location as possible while also lining them up with the sail panel emblems and having them look good, with... mixed results. Turned out the sail panel emblems had been removed at some point and put back on or replaced, and whoever did it didn't get them in the exact same location on both sides of the cars. So despite installing the opera lamps in exactly the same location on both sides, this side doesn't quite look right to me. If I ever pull the emblems off again (I replaced every single emblem on the car with NOS emblems right after I bought it, since most were faded, damaged, missing, etc.) I might change the location to line them up with the opera lamps a little better. One thing to be aware of if you ever use these opera lamps (they're not OEM, made by GEM I think), the covers absolutely hate the sun! They looks pretty good for 6-8 months, by the end of a year they had begun to yellow, and eventually were so bad that with the blue EL paper that I used to light them, the lights looks like a sickly green at night. I've since remedied this since I happened to have a set of OEM covers off of another Cadillac (I have no clue what year, I'd had them for awhile from when I was trying to piece together a full set of OEM lamps before giving up and using aftermarket ones), and those covers were a very close match to the aftermarket ones. They were slightly narrower (like an 1/8", barely noticeable), about a half inch longer and don't protrude out nearly as far. There was plenty of extra material at the top and bottom of the aftermarket housings, so a few minutes with a dremel had the OEM covers fitting into the housings snug as a bug, and since they would snap in like the old ones, I "glued" them in with some clear synthetic caulk. It should hold them in tight enough that they won't fall out, it's completely clear so you can't see it unless you stick your face right in the lamp and look for it, and unless you again stick you face right in the lamp, you can't tell that the covers weren't meant for these lamps and that I've done some work with a dremel. I haven'e take any pictures yet, but they look much better with the OEM covers, which considering they're 20-30 years old and still look brand new, shouldn't have any issues with sun damage.
0 2012/11/05 00:37:48
No, the camera is not tilted, this picture was taken with the camera completely straight and the car parked on a flat, level surface. The tilt you're seeing, is something broken... crap. Turned out that the strut on that side (that I knew had been failing and had been putting off repairing because I didn't have the money for parts yet) blew out while going around a corner. It got better, once I got it home, very, very slowly, I might add, I crawled under and discovered the full extent of the damage. When the strut blew, it threw everything off so quickly and violently, that it snapped the end link on the other side, sent the sway bar into the CV halfshaft destroying the outer boot and damaging the end of the sway bar, yeah it wasn't pretty under there. And it conveniently happened 1 month before I was supposed to leave for a road trip down to St. Louis, hence why I was short on funds, it was going towards the trip. So, I borrowed a car for a few weeks, saved up some money, pulled out the credit card, bit the bullet and bought absolutely every new part for the front end of the car. Replaced the struts, springs, bearing plates, outer tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, end links, CV halfshafts, wheel bearings, I'm forgetting some stuff but you get the idea. The plan was I was never, ever, going to have to fix anything under there again. That didn't pan out, since the damaged sway bar that I thought could still be used, broke the next year as a combined result of the damage inflicted and just overall age/use/rust/etc. I just replaced that with an upgraded unit recently. Now I just need to get around to doing the back end, the air shocks both went out within months of each other, and I plan to do the same, replace everything, so I never have to touch it ever again.
No, the camera is not tilted, this picture was taken with the camera completely straight and the car parked on a flat, level surface. The tilt you're seeing, is something broken... crap. Turned out that the strut on that side (that I knew had been failing and had been putting off repairing because I didn't have the money for parts yet) blew out while going around a corner. It got better, once I got it home, very, very slowly, I might add, I crawled under and discovered the full extent of the damage. When the strut blew, it threw everything off so quickly and violently, that it snapped the end link on the other side, sent the sway bar into the CV halfshaft destroying the outer boot and damaging the end of the sway bar, yeah it wasn't pretty under there. And it conveniently happened 1 month before I was supposed to leave for a road trip down to St. Louis, hence why I was short on funds, it was going towards the trip. So, I borrowed a car for a few weeks, saved up some money, pulled out the credit card, bit the bullet and bought absolutely every new part for the front end of the car. Replaced the struts, springs, bearing plates, outer tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, end links, CV halfshafts, wheel bearings, I'm forgetting some stuff but you get the idea. The plan was I was never, ever, going to have to fix anything under there again. That didn't pan out, since the damaged sway bar that I thought could still be used, broke the next year as a combined result of the damage inflicted and just overall age/use/rust/etc. I just replaced that with an upgraded unit recently. Now I just need to get around to doing the back end, the air shocks both went out within months of each other, and I plan to do the same, replace everything, so I never have to touch it ever again.
0 2012/11/05 01:22:15
A late night brake job in the middle of July this year. It was way to friggin' hot this summer to work on the car during the day, and my dad's machine shop isn't air conditioned so that wasn't any better, so I just waited until long after dark and did it. I think I started some time after 11pm, by then it had gotten down into the 80's, so it didn't completely suck. BTW, for brakes, I'm running EBC slotted/dimpled rotors, the latest ceramic pads (I wanted to run EBC red pads, but they don't fit. Don't ask me why they say they fit, because they don't. They are correct to the calipers, and can be put in the calipers, but the pad material is way too thick. Even with old used rotors and the pistons pressed all the way into the calipers, there was no way these were going to fit onto the disc without grinding off at least a 1/4" of material from each pad. And I wasn't too inclined to try and grind that much material off of something that's meant to stop a 4000lbs chunk of metal thousands and thousands of times without taking off more than a tiny fraction of that much pad material.) Also added Goodrich stainless steel brake lines all the way around, and flushed the system and refilled with synthetic DOT4 fluid. Stops pretty damn good most of the time, but one hard stop from high speed cooks the brakes something fierce. They just aren't big enough to take that kind of abuse, so they will fade real fast and need to cool down again before they'll stop the car properly again. I'd love to do a rear-disc brake conversion, but there's a couple things to overcome with that, and I don't know if anyone has ever done it. I've looked into it before, but never really found much useful information.
A late night brake job in the middle of July this year. It was way to friggin' hot this summer to work on the car during the day, and my dad's machine shop isn't air conditioned so that wasn't any better, so I just waited until long after dark and did it. I think I started some time after 11pm, by then it had gotten down into the 80's, so it didn't completely suck. BTW, for brakes, I'm running EBC slotted/dimpled rotors, the latest ceramic pads (I wanted to run EBC red pads, but they don't fit. Don't ask me why they say they fit, because they don't. They are correct to the calipers, and can be put in the calipers, but the pad material is way too thick. Even with old used rotors and the pistons pressed all the way into the calipers, there was no way these were going to fit onto the disc without grinding off at least a 1/4" of material from each pad. And I wasn't too inclined to try and grind that much material off of something that's meant to stop a 4000lbs chunk of metal thousands and thousands of times without taking off more than a tiny fraction of that much pad material.) Also added Goodrich stainless steel brake lines all the way around, and flushed the system and refilled with synthetic DOT4 fluid. Stops pretty damn good most of the time, but one hard stop from high speed cooks the brakes something fierce. They just aren't big enough to take that kind of abuse, so they will fade real fast and need to cool down again before they'll stop the car properly again. I'd love to do a rear-disc brake conversion, but there's a couple things to overcome with that, and I don't know if anyone has ever done it. I've looked into it before, but never really found much useful information.
0 2012/11/05 01:22:15