listen to carnut ..

also, slowroll, our resident GM mechainc just jumped in via email .. he is caught up in a bad strom ...

what slowroll says will work if the advice from carnut is applied BEFORE you do the tests.
meaning, bad connections wont serve you at all.

these two guys are good .. damn good ...

=====================================

HI, BEEN A WHILE. REVIEW MY PREVIOUS POSTS MAY FIND ANSWER.

CHECK BATTERY VOLTS ON DIC 12.0+ BATTERY CONNECTION MY BE OK. WITH VOLTMETER ON BATTERY WHAT DOES IT READ, THEN WHAT DOES IT READ WHEN TURNED TO ON THEN AGAIN TO CRANK/START?
CHECK FOR 12V ON PURPLE WIRE JUMPER AT RIGHT END OF REAR VALVE COVER WITH KEY IN CRANK.

BAD STARTER COULD BE PULLING BATTERY VOLTS BELOW 10.0v SETTING CODES. CODES WHEN CLEARED WHAT COMES BACK?

I WILL BE RIDING STORM OUT THIS WEEKEND. I WILL CHECK E MAIL MONDAY OR TUESDAY.

slowroll

 

i did all that but when i used the voltage meter it only said 13.1.....
i cleaned the battery connections (again) tightend them up.....
and it did the same thing (when i tun the key it will click and "buzzz" under the hood)

 

ohh, stealth i didnt read yoursuggestion before my last reply didnt relize there was 2 pages....
the voltage on my volt-meter and in the dash read are the same....
i cant see what the voltage is when in try and crank it cause no one is around to turn the key for me....and all the dash light and everything radio etc... go off when i turn the key like im trying to start it....so no dash readout on the volts for when im trying to start...?,..

were is the starter located at so i can take it in to advance to see if its good?...
i dont remember were i herd it from...but can the starter go out if the battery doesnt put out enough juice even one time?....



P.S. theres a couple groups of wires next to each other and one of them has like four PUPLE wires..and there in a tight spot so cantrealy test any...P.I.T.A

 

Can you get a loaner battery from someone to confirm thats not the problem?

 

Please put year and type of Cad in your signature profile like I did, so we dont have to scroll back 2 pages just to find out what you own. Thanks

 

ok i bought a brand new battery, and i put brand new terminals on.... nothing changed..
still makes a tick when i try and start it.... im EXTREMLEY pissed off ....
i even tested the battery to make sure its good....im stuck!

ANYMORE SUGGESTIONS???

 

i took the starter in to advace and they tested it...it was bad...so i bought a new one and my car still wont crank over!!!!!!!! so pissed off i almost wanna take it to a junk yard.....

 

bench test it .. there are a lot of defective units in the REM world.



from slowroll, TECH :

new terninals? why? if copper is discolored green or rust red, you need cable(s) applies to both positive and negative. being starter buzzes i doubt engine is locked up. be sure new starter is good also sometimes the lowest priced is not the best product.









.

 

the starter was brand new it WASN'T a rebuilt one...
cause the previous owner stipped out the bolt that goes to the old one for like$1 more than just the bolt you get both the terminal/bolt so why not?....
how would i see if my motor is locked up...???
ooohhhh, yeah almost forgot the guy said it looked like i had put the terminals on backwardsOR it shorted out somehow cause the bolt had (something on it i forget).....i know for a fact that i dint put them on backwards...

and the starter isnt what was buzzing its something else... when i took it in i watched them test it...and that was what was making the click every time they pushed the button... (sounded just like when it was in the car)...

 

1. BENCH TEST the starter ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

2. put a wrench on the crank and turn the engine !

3. OK .. that is two people saying that.

It happens even when one believes it didnt it .. it can happen so fast in ways that you dont even need the cables to do damage .. keys, wrench, capacitance, jacket zipper, etc.

silicone chips get fried in millions of a second.