I have a 2000 Seville STS and I have been loving it to death.

However recently it has a starting problem that I've never seen before.

One day, it wouldn't turn over no matter what I did. So I brought it to a mechanic.

He replaced the starter... and it wouldn't start. No matter what. Finally he went out to where the starter fuse is removed it, plugged it back in, and restarted the car.

This time it started but the starter kept on trying to start, start, start, continuously until the starter fuse was removed. After that I've always had to put the starter fuse in, start it up, race to remove the fuse, and proceed on my way.

I'd hate to trade this in but at this point I'm at my wits end. Does my car need to be reprogrammed? Is it an electrical short? Both? Any help and/or experience would be greatly appreciated.

 

i am probably wrong but i would start testing the ignition switch.


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I could also be wrong....
But are you sure the new starter was connected properly.
If that problem was never there before ? It can kinda make ya wonder ??
Maybe a wire was crossed, screwed up the ground or something ?

 

I'll try to retrace the wires and see if there's a bad connection somewhere.

The new relay didn't change it. It's still doing the same thing. Nothing left to do but check the wiring.

 

Could be the starter relay is stuck, but the most obvious thing would be the wiring at the starter was mixed up, or has shorted together. It's also possible the ignition switch is causing it.
I can check the wiring diagram once I get to the shop, and see what else is in the circuit....

 

Thank you very much! If I nail this problem I know I can move on with my life.

Let me know if it can be a start or short. I will say that the vehicle starts when I put the relay on it. But I have to take it off quickly. Otherwise it will keep on trying to start the starter.

 

ditto

 

The power to engage the relay comes from the PCM, via the ign switch. Basically, the ign switch signals the PCM to close the starter relay. If you install the relay, and the starter engages, then there has to be a short to power on the yellow wire going to the relay, keeping it engaged all the time. Either the ign switch/wiring is causing it, or the PCM is telling it to crank...

 

Is car stock or have accessories, radio, alarm, etc...been added?

 

According to the wiring diagrams in the service manual, the starter relay works like this. The ignition switch provides switched voltage to the relay when the ignition is turned to on or start. The PCM provides a switched ground to the starter relay when the ignition switch is turned to start. The switched ground activates the relay. There is always starting power at the relay. When the relay is activated, the fourth conductor provides power to the starter.

There are four possible causes to your starter problem.

• The ignition switch is shorted to voltage.
• The wiring between the ignition switch and connector C1 pin 6 is shorted to voltage.
• The wiring between the starter relay and connector C2 pin 44 is shorted to ground.
• The PCM is bad.

It is best to find the problem before randomly replacing parts so try these tests.

First check to see if the problem is in the ignition switch or wiring to the switch by disconnecting connector C1 from the PCM and putting a voltage tester to pin 6 of the connector. There should only be voltage when the ignition is turned to start. If this is true, the switch and wiring between the switch and PCM are good, but it this is not true and you also have voltage when the ignition is turned to on, the problem is probably with the ignition switch but the wiring between the switch and PCM could also be shorted to voltage.

To determine whether the problem is with the wiring or the ignition switch, disconnect the connector at the ignition switch and C1 at the PCM and test C1 pin 6 for conductivity to all of the conductors in the ignition connector with an ohmmeter. There should be conductivity to only one of those conductors. If there is conductivity from pin 6 to multiple conductors in the harness there is a short in the harness. If not the switch is bad.

If you didn’t find the problem on the C1 side of the PCM then check the wiring between the starter relay and connector C2. Disconnect connector C2 from the PCM and remove the starter relay. Test C2 pin 44 for a short to ground with an ohmmeter. If there is a short the problem is with the wiring between the PCM and the starter relay.

If you haven’t found the problem yet the problem is probably with the PCM. Assuming you have completed the previous tests, you will be able to test this by disconnecting C2 and with C1 connected to the PCM, hook up an ohmmeter between the PCM side of pin 44 to ground. The ohmmeter should show conductivity when the starter switch is engaged, but not when the ignition switch is on run.