'98 instrument panel POSSESSED!
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8
'98 instrument panel POSSESSED!
PROBLEM (has occurred even prior to my ownership in September '07): The TRACTION CONTROL & ABS lights come one when I start the car, but not every time. After 0-10 minutes of driving, they nearly always go out. They do not always stay on after the car is started and will sometimes re-appear during longer drives, then go out again shortly after they come on.
While the Service lights (or any combination of the two) are on, the following items do not work:
-Traction Control System
-Anti-Lock Brake System
-The ENGINE is very sluggish off the line and won't get up to high RPM's quicklylike it does when lights are off.
-Both 2 front seat warmers
-The automatic emergency brake release feature (can be inconvenient!)
-The compass on the rear view mirror and the self dimming feature that is in the mirror as well.
-The safety switch the prevents you from shifting out of Park without depressing the brake pedal.
-The mode door actuator (cadillac forum) does not fully operate when service lights are on. The blower will blow full speed, but it seems as if the air has no where to go except escape where it can. It works fine when the lights are off!
Things I've noticed that don't work properly but ARE NOT consistent with the service lights going on and off:
-My mom has the exact same car but it'sa 2000. During startup, the analog armed gauges go all the way to max and come back down (just like a Pontiac Grand Am for example) Should mine do this too, or is this just a newer feature?
-I have the option to turn off the Traction Control system (on the center console south of the shifter) and when I do, the engine also runs with limited power. It runs weak, very similar to how it runs when the service lights are on. I don't know if this is designed to be this way for safety, but theoretically, turning the Traction Control off should allow me to burn out, not the cause. I have far more power when the Traction Control is on and the "Traction Ready" message is displayed in the digital reader. I will drive my mom's car and see if her's cuts loose when I turn the traction control off...
-The power steering gets extremely stiff when quick movements are made at low speeds. For example, going 30 mph and flipping a U-turn. Towards the end of the turn, when the speed has decreased, the wheel gets extremely hard to turn, nearly impossible to turn it the maximum when this happens. This also happens when I am in a parking lot and I turn all the way to the right and all the way back to the left. Sometimes makes parking difficult.
-Thefeature that allows the driver and passenger to maintain two different temperature climates does weird things. When the passenger side is offand I have the heat on,sometimes the driver side will blow hot air and the passenger side freezing cold. I've tried turning the passenger side on hot while this happens and it makes no difference.
-I've had the battery checked and some have said that it is fine. This may not be the case because it is VERY WEAK. Maybe there is an electrical drain. Today, Iwas aiming headlights and had the lights on for less than 15 minutes, the battery went dead and car wouldn't start. I can't sit and listen to the radio for>20 either.
Previous solvedelectrical problems:
-In September of '07, I had the OnStar phone removed from the center console removed as it was causing an electrical drain on the battery.
General issues:
-Occasionally, I will go to start the car and it will act as if it has the electrical power to start, but won't. It's similar to what happens if you try to start a car while it is in drive. This car does this sometimes while in Park. It always starts, usually on the second stroke from the "on" position to "start". It has always started within 3-5 "on" to "start" strokes. Weird.
PARTIAL SOLUTION: I took my car in to an ASE Certified Technician. After $300 worth of research/code reading, he found that the entire instrument panel above the steering wheel is faulty. Supposedly, there are about 20 computers in there and it's screwing up tons of electronic features on the car. My mechanic sent my instrument panel in to a guy who has 18/20 of the components of the panel, hopefully this will solve the problem. If not, my mechanic is pointing the finger at the ABS Computer (not cheap I hear). We're still waiting to hear from the guy working on the panel, hopefully it goes well!
I doubt anyone else has this problem but if so, you're not alone!
While the Service lights (or any combination of the two) are on, the following items do not work:
-Traction Control System
-Anti-Lock Brake System
-The ENGINE is very sluggish off the line and won't get up to high RPM's quicklylike it does when lights are off.
-Both 2 front seat warmers
-The automatic emergency brake release feature (can be inconvenient!)
-The compass on the rear view mirror and the self dimming feature that is in the mirror as well.
-The safety switch the prevents you from shifting out of Park without depressing the brake pedal.
-The mode door actuator (cadillac forum) does not fully operate when service lights are on. The blower will blow full speed, but it seems as if the air has no where to go except escape where it can. It works fine when the lights are off!
Things I've noticed that don't work properly but ARE NOT consistent with the service lights going on and off:
-My mom has the exact same car but it'sa 2000. During startup, the analog armed gauges go all the way to max and come back down (just like a Pontiac Grand Am for example) Should mine do this too, or is this just a newer feature?
-I have the option to turn off the Traction Control system (on the center console south of the shifter) and when I do, the engine also runs with limited power. It runs weak, very similar to how it runs when the service lights are on. I don't know if this is designed to be this way for safety, but theoretically, turning the Traction Control off should allow me to burn out, not the cause. I have far more power when the Traction Control is on and the "Traction Ready" message is displayed in the digital reader. I will drive my mom's car and see if her's cuts loose when I turn the traction control off...
-The power steering gets extremely stiff when quick movements are made at low speeds. For example, going 30 mph and flipping a U-turn. Towards the end of the turn, when the speed has decreased, the wheel gets extremely hard to turn, nearly impossible to turn it the maximum when this happens. This also happens when I am in a parking lot and I turn all the way to the right and all the way back to the left. Sometimes makes parking difficult.
-Thefeature that allows the driver and passenger to maintain two different temperature climates does weird things. When the passenger side is offand I have the heat on,sometimes the driver side will blow hot air and the passenger side freezing cold. I've tried turning the passenger side on hot while this happens and it makes no difference.
-I've had the battery checked and some have said that it is fine. This may not be the case because it is VERY WEAK. Maybe there is an electrical drain. Today, Iwas aiming headlights and had the lights on for less than 15 minutes, the battery went dead and car wouldn't start. I can't sit and listen to the radio for>20 either.
Previous solvedelectrical problems:
-In September of '07, I had the OnStar phone removed from the center console removed as it was causing an electrical drain on the battery.
General issues:
-Occasionally, I will go to start the car and it will act as if it has the electrical power to start, but won't. It's similar to what happens if you try to start a car while it is in drive. This car does this sometimes while in Park. It always starts, usually on the second stroke from the "on" position to "start". It has always started within 3-5 "on" to "start" strokes. Weird.
PARTIAL SOLUTION: I took my car in to an ASE Certified Technician. After $300 worth of research/code reading, he found that the entire instrument panel above the steering wheel is faulty. Supposedly, there are about 20 computers in there and it's screwing up tons of electronic features on the car. My mechanic sent my instrument panel in to a guy who has 18/20 of the components of the panel, hopefully this will solve the problem. If not, my mechanic is pointing the finger at the ABS Computer (not cheap I hear). We're still waiting to hear from the guy working on the panel, hopefully it goes well!
I doubt anyone else has this problem but if so, you're not alone!
Super Moderator
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,945
RE: '98 instrument panel POSSESSED!
ORIGINAL: carl.r.johnson
PROBLEM (has occurred even prior to my ownership in September '07): The TRACTION CONTROL & ABS lights come one when I start the car, but not every time. After 0-10 minutes of driving, they nearly always go out. They do not always stay on after the car is started and will sometimes re-appear during longer drives, then go out again shortly after they come on.
While the Service lights (or any combination of the two) are on, the following items do not work:
-Traction Control System
-Anti-Lock Brake System
-The ENGINE is very sluggish off the line and won't get up to high RPM's quicklylike it does when lights are off.
-Both 2 front seat warmers
-The automatic emergency brake release feature (can be inconvenient!)
-The compass on the rear view mirror and the self dimming feature that is in the mirror as well.
-The safety switch the prevents you from shifting out of Park without depressing the brake pedal.
-The mode door actuator (cadillac forum) does not fully operate when service lights are on. The blower will blow full speed, but it seems as if the air has no where to go except escape where it can. It works fine when the lights are off!
Things I've noticed that don't work properly but ARE NOT consistent with the service lights going on and off:
-My mom has the exact same car but it'sa 2000. During startup, the analog armed gauges go all the way to max and come back down (just like a Pontiac Grand Am for example) Should mine do this too, or is this just a newer feature?
-I have the option to turn off the Traction Control system (on the center console south of the shifter) and when I do, the engine also runs with limited power. It runs weak, very similar to how it runs when the service lights are on. I don't know if this is designed to be this way for safety, but theoretically, turning the Traction Control off should allow me to burn out, not the cause. I have far more power when the Traction Control is on and the "Traction Ready" message is displayed in the digital reader. I will drive my mom's car and see if her's cuts loose when I turn the traction control off...
-The power steering gets extremely stiff when quick movements are made at low speeds. For example, going 30 mph and flipping a U-turn. Towards the end of the turn, when the speed has decreased, the wheel gets extremely hard to turn, nearly impossible to turn it the maximum when this happens. This also happens when I am in a parking lot and I turn all the way to the right and all the way back to the left. Sometimes makes parking difficult.
-Thefeature that allows the driver and passenger to maintain two different temperature climates does weird things. When the passenger side is offand I have the heat on,sometimes the driver side will blow hot air and the passenger side freezing cold. I've tried turning the passenger side on hot while this happens and it makes no difference.
-I've had the battery checked and some have said that it is fine. This may not be the case because it is VERY WEAK. Maybe there is an electrical drain. Today, Iwas aiming headlights and had the lights on for less than 15 minutes, the battery went dead and car wouldn't start. I can't sit and listen to the radio for>20 either.
Previous solvedelectrical problems:
-In September of '07, I had the OnStar phone removed from the center console removed as it was causing an electrical drain on the battery.
General issues:
-Occasionally, I will go to start the car and it will act as if it has the electrical power to start, but won't. It's similar to what happens if you try to start a car while it is in drive. This car does this sometimes while in Park. It always starts, usually on the second stroke from the "on" position to "start". It has always started within 3-5 "on" to "start" strokes. Weird.
PARTIAL SOLUTION: I took my car in to an ASE Certified Technician. After $300 worth of research/code reading, he found that the entire instrument panel above the steering wheel is faulty. Supposedly, there are about 20 computers in there and it's screwing up tons of electronic features on the car. My mechanic sent my instrument panel in to a guy who has 18/20 of the components of the panel, hopefully this will solve the problem. If not, my mechanic is pointing the finger at the ABS Computer (not cheap I hear). We're still waiting to hear from the guy working on the panel, hopefully it goes well!
I doubt anyone else has this problem but if so, you're not alone!
PROBLEM (has occurred even prior to my ownership in September '07): The TRACTION CONTROL & ABS lights come one when I start the car, but not every time. After 0-10 minutes of driving, they nearly always go out. They do not always stay on after the car is started and will sometimes re-appear during longer drives, then go out again shortly after they come on.
While the Service lights (or any combination of the two) are on, the following items do not work:
-Traction Control System
-Anti-Lock Brake System
-The ENGINE is very sluggish off the line and won't get up to high RPM's quicklylike it does when lights are off.
-Both 2 front seat warmers
-The automatic emergency brake release feature (can be inconvenient!)
-The compass on the rear view mirror and the self dimming feature that is in the mirror as well.
-The safety switch the prevents you from shifting out of Park without depressing the brake pedal.
-The mode door actuator (cadillac forum) does not fully operate when service lights are on. The blower will blow full speed, but it seems as if the air has no where to go except escape where it can. It works fine when the lights are off!
Things I've noticed that don't work properly but ARE NOT consistent with the service lights going on and off:
-My mom has the exact same car but it'sa 2000. During startup, the analog armed gauges go all the way to max and come back down (just like a Pontiac Grand Am for example) Should mine do this too, or is this just a newer feature?
-I have the option to turn off the Traction Control system (on the center console south of the shifter) and when I do, the engine also runs with limited power. It runs weak, very similar to how it runs when the service lights are on. I don't know if this is designed to be this way for safety, but theoretically, turning the Traction Control off should allow me to burn out, not the cause. I have far more power when the Traction Control is on and the "Traction Ready" message is displayed in the digital reader. I will drive my mom's car and see if her's cuts loose when I turn the traction control off...
-The power steering gets extremely stiff when quick movements are made at low speeds. For example, going 30 mph and flipping a U-turn. Towards the end of the turn, when the speed has decreased, the wheel gets extremely hard to turn, nearly impossible to turn it the maximum when this happens. This also happens when I am in a parking lot and I turn all the way to the right and all the way back to the left. Sometimes makes parking difficult.
-Thefeature that allows the driver and passenger to maintain two different temperature climates does weird things. When the passenger side is offand I have the heat on,sometimes the driver side will blow hot air and the passenger side freezing cold. I've tried turning the passenger side on hot while this happens and it makes no difference.
-I've had the battery checked and some have said that it is fine. This may not be the case because it is VERY WEAK. Maybe there is an electrical drain. Today, Iwas aiming headlights and had the lights on for less than 15 minutes, the battery went dead and car wouldn't start. I can't sit and listen to the radio for>20 either.
Previous solvedelectrical problems:
-In September of '07, I had the OnStar phone removed from the center console removed as it was causing an electrical drain on the battery.
General issues:
-Occasionally, I will go to start the car and it will act as if it has the electrical power to start, but won't. It's similar to what happens if you try to start a car while it is in drive. This car does this sometimes while in Park. It always starts, usually on the second stroke from the "on" position to "start". It has always started within 3-5 "on" to "start" strokes. Weird.
PARTIAL SOLUTION: I took my car in to an ASE Certified Technician. After $300 worth of research/code reading, he found that the entire instrument panel above the steering wheel is faulty. Supposedly, there are about 20 computers in there and it's screwing up tons of electronic features on the car. My mechanic sent my instrument panel in to a guy who has 18/20 of the components of the panel, hopefully this will solve the problem. If not, my mechanic is pointing the finger at the ABS Computer (not cheap I hear). We're still waiting to hear from the guy working on the panel, hopefully it goes well!
I doubt anyone else has this problem but if so, you're not alone!
what you are seeing many of us Allante guys have seen.
in our cars the culprids are often the BCM, bad grounds, or oxidized connectors.
we get our FSMs out and go at it, one wire, one connector at the time, voltmeter on hand,
di-electric grease being applied at every connector as we go.
oh, sometimes, we disconnect the battery, reboot all systems after each diagnosis and reconnect ..
we may not know why that works, but we know it often does.
I have a e-ghosts FAQ thread that goes into most of that in our FAQ section, do take a look at it.
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