I took the car into the dealer because the passenger side blows out only hot air. Dealer says they hooked up a scanner and could not get the passenger side actuator to work through the control head and THINKS the control head is bad. New control head is $600 plus labor. Is there any way to manual move the actuator to allow cold air? Also the rear is blowing just hot also so I am assuming it is controller by the same actuator. I believe this is the one behind the glove box which I understand you have to take out to get to it. Thanks for the help!!!

 

Actuators fail more often than control heads, they are less expensive also. Dealer's Tech 2 scanner would be able to move door where ever you want it if control head is bad...overrides control head commands.

 

I guess I will have to take the dash apart and find the acuactor and see if I can remove it. Really did not the dealer would make me get a part that I did not need. Not very good business.

 

When you check the actuator, you can verify that the control is sending the correct signal with a voltage meter. Unhook the connector and put a voltage meter on the second pin from the end, the one with the dark blue wire. The voltage should vary between 0, 2.5, and 5 volts as the control is moved. The amount of the voltage controls the door as follows: 0-1 volts moves the door toward full hot. 2.5 volts stops the door at that location. 4-5 volts moves the door to full cold.

The actuator compares the control voltage to a reference voltage when controling the door, so another possible cause to your problem could be a short to ground on the 5 volt reference signal. Check the end pin with the grey wire and verify that there is 5 volts at that pin with the ignition ON but not running.

 

Found the bad one behind the glove box on the left side. Removed and moved vent manually. I will try the voltage reads on the line next. Thanks