allantesource window regulator - Cadillac Allante
#1
02-07-2008, 07:56 AM
allantesource window regulator - Cadillac Allante
[align=center] Printed and Posted by Permission to this writer from Dick Hussey and Allantesource.com
All material herein is Copyrighted.
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WINDOW REGULATOR REPLACEMENT 1987-1992 Allante's
Replacing the window regulator is not a difficult job. No special tools are required.
The door must be opened up by (1) removing the lower door trim panel, (2) removing the upper door trim panel, (3) removing the speaker amp, and (4) peeling back the watershed seal .
To remove the lower portion of the door panels, first remove the two screws in the armrest grip. These are Phillips head screws. One way is to use a stubby screwdriver to remove them, since the top of the upper door panel tapers in, preventing you from getting a straight shot into the screw head with a standard length screwdriver. Or you can use the proper size Phillips bit from a screwdriver with interchangeable bits, inserted into a ¼" hex socket and ¼" drive ratchet. This provides plenty of torque.
There are two possible problems here to avoid.
First, the screw heads could be filled with foreign matter. Second, if you have had significant water leaks over a long time, these screws could be rusted in. Take special care to clean out the slots and not strip the heads. If you use the ¼" drive ratchet, make sure you stay straight and keep adequate downward pressure on the ratchet. This is a little bit difficult since you are right up against the door panel.
Once the two retaining screws have been removed, the armrest can be rotated up and out of the slots that hold it. Lift up the edge by the door panel, and push the armrest toward the door to allow the plastic tabs on the bottom to come out of the slots underneath.
Once the armrest is removed, there are 4 screws holding the armrest bracket to be removed: two going down and two going into the door panel. The express down relay is mounted to the bracket and must be unplugged. There is a plastic retaining tab that must be removed before the electrical connector can be disconnected.Once the bracket has been removed, pull and hold the door handle to the "open door" position to gain access to the two screws behind the handle, and remove them.
Next, gently pry up the rear of the power window switch. Pull the switch up and out of the mounting hole. If the switch has been removed before, the wires will move far enough for all electrical connections to be unplugged. If it has not been removed before, there is a wire tie holding the wires to the door panel that must be cut in order to release the wiring to gain access to the connectors. Looking down inside the switch hole, you will see the door handle linkage. There is a green plastic clip that holds the linkage to the door handle. The clip must be rotated more than 90 degrees to unclip it from where it connects around the linkage, then the end of the link will lift up from the door handle, and the door handle will come free.
Next, there are three screws on the very bottom of the door panel that must be removed. You have to get down very low and look up to see them. Two are in the vinyl-coated section of the panel, and one is in the carpeted section. Once these three screws have been removed, pull out the panel at the bottom, and then lower it to clear the clips that slide under the upper panel. Hold the panel, and disconnect the power door lock linkage. This has the same type of connector as the door handle. Rotate the green plastic clip 90 degrees to unclip from around the linkage, then pull the end of the linkage free. The door panel can then be set aside.
The speaker/amps are located in the front corner of each of the doors. Remove the four screws holding the rear retaining bracket. Then there is one nut and one screw to remove on the front of the speaker amp, and the unit will be free. Disconnect the electrical connector, and remove the unit from the vehicle.
Next, remove the 4 bolts holding the upper door trim panel to the door. Lift and slide the panel rearward so that it comes free.
Next, gently pull the black water deflector seal loose from the bottom of the door, and the end of the door closest to the jam. It is not necessary to completely remove the water deflector from the door. Just pull it back far enough to expose the window regulator and all the mounting bolts. There are three Allen bolts holding the window to the regulator. Remove them, being careful to support the window. Remove the window from the car by lowering the front and raising the back. Set it aside on a towel or other soft surface to protect it from any scratches.
Unclip the window motor’s electrical connection. Remove the mounting bolts from the regulator. There are three nuts in the area of the motor, two bolts at the top, and two more bolts down inside the bottom of the door. Then the regulator can be tipped sideways, and removed from inside the door.To reinstall, reverse the above steps. Window stop and lateral adjustments should be checked before putting the door back together.
When reinstalling the door panel, pay special attention to the power door lock linkage. This passes through a cut-out in the water deflector, and must move freely in order for the power door locks to work properly.
It is difficult the reconnect the linkage with the panel mounted to the door. I support the panel, reconnect the linkage, and then mount the panel back on the door. The door handle can also be a struggle. Some have suggested using putty or tape to secure the floating nut plate, but I have found a way that works better. Take a ballpeen hammer, and lightly tap the sheet metal in the area of the nut plate, to create slight drag on the nut plate. That way, it will stay where you position it. Don't overdo the drag. It still needs to move slightly. Center the tapped holes in the nut plate with respect to the punched holes in the door sheet metal. The screws have tapered points and will start easily. When pushing the window switch wires back into the door after reconnecting the switch, make sure you keep them away from the power door lock linkage. They can cause the door locks to malfunction by placing a drag on the linkage. Otherwise, reassembly is pretty straightforward.
If you have any specific questions or problems, you can email them to allantesource@prodigy.net . If you have purchased a rebuilt regulator from Allantésource, please make sure to return the core as soon as possible after installation.
Window Regulator Replacement - 1993 Allante's
We have not yet written up a detailed step-by step procedure to replace the 1993 Allante' window regulator.
All material herein is Copyrighted.
================================================== =======
[/align]
WINDOW REGULATOR REPLACEMENT 1987-1992 Allante's
Replacing the window regulator is not a difficult job. No special tools are required.
The door must be opened up by (1) removing the lower door trim panel, (2) removing the upper door trim panel, (3) removing the speaker amp, and (4) peeling back the watershed seal .
To remove the lower portion of the door panels, first remove the two screws in the armrest grip. These are Phillips head screws. One way is to use a stubby screwdriver to remove them, since the top of the upper door panel tapers in, preventing you from getting a straight shot into the screw head with a standard length screwdriver. Or you can use the proper size Phillips bit from a screwdriver with interchangeable bits, inserted into a ¼" hex socket and ¼" drive ratchet. This provides plenty of torque.
There are two possible problems here to avoid.
First, the screw heads could be filled with foreign matter. Second, if you have had significant water leaks over a long time, these screws could be rusted in. Take special care to clean out the slots and not strip the heads. If you use the ¼" drive ratchet, make sure you stay straight and keep adequate downward pressure on the ratchet. This is a little bit difficult since you are right up against the door panel.
Once the two retaining screws have been removed, the armrest can be rotated up and out of the slots that hold it. Lift up the edge by the door panel, and push the armrest toward the door to allow the plastic tabs on the bottom to come out of the slots underneath.
Once the armrest is removed, there are 4 screws holding the armrest bracket to be removed: two going down and two going into the door panel. The express down relay is mounted to the bracket and must be unplugged. There is a plastic retaining tab that must be removed before the electrical connector can be disconnected.Once the bracket has been removed, pull and hold the door handle to the "open door" position to gain access to the two screws behind the handle, and remove them.
Next, gently pry up the rear of the power window switch. Pull the switch up and out of the mounting hole. If the switch has been removed before, the wires will move far enough for all electrical connections to be unplugged. If it has not been removed before, there is a wire tie holding the wires to the door panel that must be cut in order to release the wiring to gain access to the connectors. Looking down inside the switch hole, you will see the door handle linkage. There is a green plastic clip that holds the linkage to the door handle. The clip must be rotated more than 90 degrees to unclip it from where it connects around the linkage, then the end of the link will lift up from the door handle, and the door handle will come free.
Next, there are three screws on the very bottom of the door panel that must be removed. You have to get down very low and look up to see them. Two are in the vinyl-coated section of the panel, and one is in the carpeted section. Once these three screws have been removed, pull out the panel at the bottom, and then lower it to clear the clips that slide under the upper panel. Hold the panel, and disconnect the power door lock linkage. This has the same type of connector as the door handle. Rotate the green plastic clip 90 degrees to unclip from around the linkage, then pull the end of the linkage free. The door panel can then be set aside.
The speaker/amps are located in the front corner of each of the doors. Remove the four screws holding the rear retaining bracket. Then there is one nut and one screw to remove on the front of the speaker amp, and the unit will be free. Disconnect the electrical connector, and remove the unit from the vehicle.
Next, remove the 4 bolts holding the upper door trim panel to the door. Lift and slide the panel rearward so that it comes free.
Next, gently pull the black water deflector seal loose from the bottom of the door, and the end of the door closest to the jam. It is not necessary to completely remove the water deflector from the door. Just pull it back far enough to expose the window regulator and all the mounting bolts. There are three Allen bolts holding the window to the regulator. Remove them, being careful to support the window. Remove the window from the car by lowering the front and raising the back. Set it aside on a towel or other soft surface to protect it from any scratches.
Unclip the window motor’s electrical connection. Remove the mounting bolts from the regulator. There are three nuts in the area of the motor, two bolts at the top, and two more bolts down inside the bottom of the door. Then the regulator can be tipped sideways, and removed from inside the door.To reinstall, reverse the above steps. Window stop and lateral adjustments should be checked before putting the door back together.
When reinstalling the door panel, pay special attention to the power door lock linkage. This passes through a cut-out in the water deflector, and must move freely in order for the power door locks to work properly.
It is difficult the reconnect the linkage with the panel mounted to the door. I support the panel, reconnect the linkage, and then mount the panel back on the door. The door handle can also be a struggle. Some have suggested using putty or tape to secure the floating nut plate, but I have found a way that works better. Take a ballpeen hammer, and lightly tap the sheet metal in the area of the nut plate, to create slight drag on the nut plate. That way, it will stay where you position it. Don't overdo the drag. It still needs to move slightly. Center the tapped holes in the nut plate with respect to the punched holes in the door sheet metal. The screws have tapered points and will start easily. When pushing the window switch wires back into the door after reconnecting the switch, make sure you keep them away from the power door lock linkage. They can cause the door locks to malfunction by placing a drag on the linkage. Otherwise, reassembly is pretty straightforward.
If you have any specific questions or problems, you can email them to allantesource@prodigy.net . If you have purchased a rebuilt regulator from Allantésource, please make sure to return the core as soon as possible after installation.
Window Regulator Replacement - 1993 Allante's
We have not yet written up a detailed step-by step procedure to replace the 1993 Allante' window regulator.
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