Removing the BOSE speakers

1. Start with the three Phillips head screws on the bottom of the door lower trim panel.[13]

2. Looking straight down at the armrest take out the two Phillips head screws and lift off the armrest.[1]

3. Now take out the two screws behind the door latch hand lever that opens the door. You will have to pull the lever out to get at them.[4] (They are also the hardest screws to put back in. I used a center punch to align one hole while putting the first screw in the other.)

4. Take out the two screws that were hidden behind the armrest.[2]

5. Now pull the door panel down and slightly back and you will release a bunch of retaining tabs at the top of the door panel and a hook at the top of the door handle.[7] [8]

6. Now disconnect the electrical connectors. [6]

7. Next you have to release the two roset clips. One for the door handle, and one for the door lock lever.[9] ( I was able to reach up from the bottom of the door panel and push the plastic clip away from the metal rod.)

8. Now that you have the door panel off you will see a metal bracket held on by four screws.[12] Remove the screws and then there should also be 3 nuts holding the black plastic speaker enclosure in place.

9. OK! All that's left is the speaker wire connectors. (And putting the door panel back on while the speakers are getting repaired or replaced.)

10. The rear speakers are easy they are behind the rear side covers and held on by 4 bolts
You can send the speakers out to get repaired or order new amps

By allantesource.com

Front speaker amp replacement

Removing the two front speakers from the doors does not require any special tools, and is not that difficult. Probably the hardest part of the job is getting the door panel back together properly with everything hooked up correctly.

Pay special attention to the door lock and door handle linkage as you are removing it. Otherwise, the project is not difficult. To remove the lower portion of the door panels, first remove the two screws in the armrest grip. These are Phillips head screws.

One way is to use a stubby screwdriver to remove them, since the top of the upper door panel tapers in, preventing you from getting a straight shot into the screw head with a standard length screw driver. The best method is to use the proper size Phillips bit from a screwdriver with interchangeable bits, inserted into a ¼" hex socket and ¼" drive ratchet. This provides plenty of torque.

There are two possible problems here to avoid.
First, the screw heads could be filled with foreign matter.
Second, if you have had significant water leaks over a long time, these screws could be rusted in.

Take special care to clean out the slots and not strip the heads. If you use the ¼" drive ratchet, make sure you stay straight and keep adequate downward pressure on the ratchet. This is a little bit difficult since you are right up against the door panel.

Once the two retaining screws have been removed, the armrest can be rotated up and out of the slots that hold it. Lift up the edge by the door panel, and push the armrest toward the door to allow the plastic tabs on the bottom to come out of the slots underneath. Once the armrest is removed, there are 4 screws holding the armrest bracket to be removed: two going down and two going into the door panel.

On later Allanté’s, the express down relay is mounted underneath, and must be unplugged. There is a plastic retaining tab that must be removed before the electrical connector can be disconnected. Once the bracket has been removed, push up or pry up the rear of the power window switch. Carefully pull the wiring up out of the mounting hole. If the switch case separates, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO LET THE SWITCH CASE SEPARATE. The are four internal contacts inside that can fall out if the switch comes apart.

The driver's door has two connectors on the back of the switch to unplug, then three connectors about 8" away in the wiring. If the switch has never been removed before, there will be a cable tie holding the wires to the door panel. This tie must be cut before the connectors can be unsnapped.

Next pull the interior door handle to the "open door" position to gain access to the two screws behind the handle, and remove them. Looking down inside the switch hole, you will see the door handle linkage.

There is a green plastic clip that holds the linkage to the door handle. The clip must be rotated more than 90 degrees to unclip it from where it connects around the linkage, then the end of the link will lift up from the door handle, and the door handle will come free.

Next, there are three screws on the very bottom of the door panel that must be removed. You have to get down very low and look up to see them. Two are in the vinyl-coated section of the panel, and one is in the carpeted section. Once these three screws have been removed, the panel will be loose.

Move the door lock paddle to the locked position. Pull out the bottom of the panel, then pull out then down on the to remove the clips from behind the upper door panel. Hold the panel, and disconnect the power door lock linkage. This has the same type of connector as the door handle. Rotate the green plastic clip 90 degrees to unclip from around the linkage, then pull the end of the linkage free. On the driver’s door panel, the connector for the power mirror adjustment switch on 1990-1992 models must also be unplugged. The door panel can then be set aside.

The speaker/amps are located in the front corner of each of the doors. Remove the four screws holding the rear retaining bracket. Then there are one nut and one screw to remove on the front of the speaker amp, and the unit will be free. To find them, you will need to push the water deflector out of the way on the edge of the speaker amp closest to the door pillar.

Disconnect the electrical connector, and remove the unit from the vehicle. Remove the two nuts holding the rear mounting bracket to the speaker. To reinstall the rebuilt speaker amp, just reverse these steps.

When reinstalling the door panel, pay special attention to the power door lock linkage. This passes through a cut-out in the water deflector, and must move freely in order for the power door locks to work properly. It is difficult to reconnect the linkage with the panel mounted to the door.

I support the panel, reconnect the linkage, and then mount the panel back on the door. The door handle can also be a struggle.

There is a floating nut plate where the two screws attach that needs to be immobilized. Others have suggested tips such as putty or tape to do this. Putty is messy and tape doesn’t allow movement. The best way is to take the rounded end of a ball-peen hammer, with the bracket removed from the speaker amp enclosure, gently tap in the sheet metal pocket to create a drag on the nut plate. The plate still needs to move when prying it for final location, but it needs to stay where you put it. Don’t overdo the drag. Create just enough to hold it in place. Center the tapped holes in the nut plate with the punched holes in the door. That way, the screws will go right in. Just make sure not to cross thread them. They have a very fine thread.

When pushing the window switch wires back into the door after reconnecting the switch, make sure you keep them away from the power door lock linkage. They can cause the door locks to malfunction by placing a drag on the linkage. Otherwise, reassembly is pretty straightforward. If you have any specific questions or problems, you can email them to allantesource@prodigy.net

ORIGINAL: Stealth


The challenge is the hodling TWO parts aligned, may i recommend a bit of BEE's WAX?

For several decades, bee's was has been part of my tool bags. IT holds just about anything together so that
one can perform assy. Readily used by the USAF in assy of jet aircraft and engines.

IF you dont have a hobby shop near by, go to the supermarket and buy a jar of honey with the honecomb
in the jar. There is your bee's wax, the honeycomb.

lol

author = Stealth.
date=11/18/06 at 10:16:19

hey, that is an outstanding site with outstanding pictures.
worthy of a new thread all on itslef.


Cadillac Allante

CDM (Tuner / Amplifier Box) Removal
Front Bose Speaker / Amplifier Removal
Rear Bose Speaker / Amplifier Removal
Console Removal with CD/Tape Player I
Console Removal with CD/Tape Player II

http://www.carstereohelp.com/strcadillac.htm

by carstereohelp.com

I find reinstalling this door panel more difficult than the removal. The floating nut plate mentioned above is difficult to align when reinstalling door panel. Because this nut plate moves, even though there is black putty to secure in place it will move when attempting to install the two screws for the door handle. I jam a piece of cardboard into the plate area to keep it from moving. You will have to put the door panel back in place to see it the bolt holes line up, you may do this several times before finding the line up point. Be patient!

http://www.carstereohelp.com/stereor...lanteFbose.htm
How to Remove and Install Front door panel Bose Speaker Amplifier

ORIGINAL: Stealth





http://www.installer.com/item/displa...php?it=70-1857