I have a 1999 aurora and am plauged by the same problem. They have the same suspension as the caddys and I can't figure it out

 

Everyone should make GM's phone line ring like crazy until someone steps up and makes them accountable. They designed these damn things and sold them, so they should be the ones spending the time and money to resolve the issues. All I can say is I'm glad I still own an old classic and not these newer versions with all the headaches. Hope you guys get a resolve before any more good money gets spent on them.

 

I am about to spend 350.00 on a visit by the GM engineer. Ugh.

A friend - who is a GM certified mechanic - did some tests after re checking the suspension components. (See earlier posts about new tires, new rotors and road force balancing.) These are some observations:

1. It happens in and out of gear, so with the transmission in neutral at highway speeds, shimmy continues. Same with downshifting to 2nd or 3rd.

2. It continues when using an off ramp, so sideways force does not affect it.

3. It is noticeable over 60, but its there at lower speeds, noticeable down to 30mph at toll booths, tending to discount an aerodynamic explanation.

4. It seems it takes about a half mile at highway speed to "warm up" and become noticeable.

GM has not given me any intelligent response. No one has an answer.

Kevin

 

has any of you tried changing out your tie rods. i had a shake at high speeds in my cts and that fixed the problem

 

I will mention this to the engineer tomorrow. I have high hopes for the 350.00 consultation with the engineer. Aside from the shake, my car is perfect - but that's a big aside.

 

Here is the relevant bulletin. The problem is connected to a toe-in toe-out condition. At the last session, the engineer simply followed the bulletin and charged me 350.00, doing the same thing the dealer did before, only a little better. There is less shake, but it still exists. There may be some question about range of adjustment. This is a pristine low milage car with no accidents at all or other problems. It should not be shaking. Anyway, I'll fix it, but it's been expensive.

 

I hope you might take care of it before more amount of money is invested at it.

 

has anyone figured this out? I have a 2002 deville base model. it is shaking now between 53mph all the way up it started very subtle and now it is to where when I hit 75-80 mph the whole car shakes so violently that the wheels come off the ground and they chirp and the car wants to spin out. it is a side to side shake and has just gotten worse and worse. ive replaced both front outer tie rods the passanger side inner tie rod and rotor, the power steering high pressure line, serpentine belt, tires, added rear spring spacers to resolve air assisted shocks not lifting the car, and brake lines. I took it to a local shop and was told the same inner tie rod was stripped from my outer tie rod being shoved in and well ofcourse that wasn't the issue. and they say I need two new front wheel bearing hubs. I never let anyone work on my cars and the shop telling me I needed a new inner and outer tie rod after I had just replaced it is exactly why I do my own work. but this shimmy/shaking/vibration what ever the hell u wanna call it is driving me absolutely nuts. so if anyone has any input on anything that's helps please speak up

 

I don't know if this will help anyone but here's what I have done since my vibration started, rear track bars (both) front inner and outer tie rods, rotors (4), brakes, sway bar linkage and bushings, rear shocks 63$ for two brand new Gabriel's with air lines and valve stem to skip the compressor, power steering high pressure line,serpentine, tensioner pulley and water pump pulley, brake lines, and after all the work from either chasing the vibration or repairing **** that's been vibrated to it's death the last thing I put on was the shocks in the rear which drastically helped it to where it's almost completely gone occasionally it will vibrate but I think after the suspension work that an alignment would cure the rest but I literally just the shocks on outonEys ago.Either way I hope this helps and if the vibration is coming from the front check the front struts push down on the hood if it's bouncy replace them and also check the point at where the cv shaft enters the tranny I hear a lot about the internal bearing going bad which will definitely cause vibration and slight leaking of tranny fluid from that point because the vibration from the bearing travels threw the cv and wears out the seal. And that's not a cheap fix either

 

I don't know if this will help anyone but here's what I have done since my vibration started, rear track bars (both) front inner and outer tie rods, rotors (4), brakes, sway bar linkage and bushings, rear shocks 63$ for two brand new Gabriel's with air lines and valve stem to skip the compressor, power steering high pressure line,serpentine, tensioner pulley and water pump pulley, brake lines, and after all the work from either chasing the vibration or repairing **** that's been vibrated to it's death the last thing I put on was the shocks in the rear which drastically helped it to where it's almost completely gone occasionally it will vibrate but I think after the suspension work that an alignment would cure the rest but I literally just the shocks on outonEys ago.Either way I hope this helps and if the vibration is coming from the front check the front struts push down on the hood if it's bouncy replace them and also check the point at where the cv shaft enters the tranny I hear a lot about the internal bearing going bad which will definitely cause vibration and slight leaking of tranny fluid from that point because the vibration from the bearing travels threw the cv and wears out the seal. And that's not a cheap fix either