98 STS gets hot... then not??
So far so good on things. I hope I am not jinxing things by saying that.
I replaced the temp sensor this past Friday night... so far so good.
I am going to check with a couple different slavage yards I sometimes get things from to get an idea of price. If a decent deal comes along I might grab one so I have that base covered. I am a bit nervous about that though because you don't know what kind of issue might come along with an engine like that. It might be on the verge of the same problems.
I replaced the temp sensor this past Friday night... so far so good.
I am going to check with a couple different slavage yards I sometimes get things from to get an idea of price. If a decent deal comes along I might grab one so I have that base covered. I am a bit nervous about that though because you don't know what kind of issue might come along with an engine like that. It might be on the verge of the same problems.
Also have never come across a warped head on northstar myself either. And my 97 Deville was overheated really bad a few times before doing the headgaskets. Didn't do anything to the heads except for cleaning them up a little that's it. Mostly just gaskets to do the job.
I have done 2 of these before. Mine was a 97 deville and a 97 seville. It is alot of work to do it. I only did it because I am a mechanic and had access to the special tools needed to do it and a shop to do it in. It cost me about 500 in parts to do it myself and this was also with a discount on parts. To have the headgaskets replaced in a shop you might as well get rid of the car. I have been told as little as $2500 and as much as 4500 depending on what needs to be done. The worst part is that when the headbolts are removed it takes the threads out of the block most of the time. So you have to drill, tap, and timecert (more less a helicoil but special) the block. Lots of work and the tool alone costs about 500 to buy. Engine has to come out the bottom with trans and whole subframe to do the block work. The nice thing is once that is out you can do the whole thing on the subframe. I did one of mine about 2 years and 40k ago and the other one about a year and 20k ago. They both have been great and no overheating at all. If you look for a motor used make sure you match the vin code. If its in an sts it has the 9 code and a sls or deville has the y code. Different cams I believe.
As we usually report, you again verify that the cost of parts and tools just about exceeds the cost of a good tested salvage engine.
Then, one can expect the labor hours for the headgaskets to be more than an engine swap.
Right now as my car is in the shop they told me no more than $2800 thats replacing all the gaskets, bolts,and to timesert the block. I have been told by a cady tech that there is about a 60% failure rate after this is done.
At the same time i feel its the same probability replacing the current engine with a used one. Just cuz it was pressure tested and passed doenst mean that when that engine was being used it was treated well. so i think you have about the same amount of odds either way. Since my engine was a replacement engine with 60,000mi. when installed and 5,000mi. later the gaskets go bad i feel my chances of replacing the gaskets and driving the car for another 20,000-60,000miles would mean i got closer to 100,000 miles on the same engine and had the same problem as i would swaping another engine in. So its all how you look at it and if you think the car is worth puting your money in.
At the same time i feel its the same probability replacing the current engine with a used one. Just cuz it was pressure tested and passed doenst mean that when that engine was being used it was treated well. so i think you have about the same amount of odds either way. Since my engine was a replacement engine with 60,000mi. when installed and 5,000mi. later the gaskets go bad i feel my chances of replacing the gaskets and driving the car for another 20,000-60,000miles would mean i got closer to 100,000 miles on the same engine and had the same problem as i would swaping another engine in. So its all how you look at it and if you think the car is worth puting your money in.
This afternoon the temp made a quick jump to the 3/4 point, once the engine was shut off and re-started the temp drops right back to normal , very quickly. It is that part that makes me wonder what is going on. This was the first incident since replacing the temp sensor last friday night.
Anyone have approx labor numbers on a R & R of engine?
Anyone have approx labor numbers on a R & R of engine?
Have any of you tried a product such as: K & W Nanotechnology, Permanent Head gasket and Block repair? http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/co...?PN=401232&S=N
The product is not cheap and is supposed to be guaranteed. I already have it on my shop shelf and bought this winter for those "just in case I need it" moments.
The product is not cheap and is supposed to be guaranteed. I already have it on my shop shelf and bought this winter for those "just in case I need it" moments.
I placed a call to the company that makes this product. I left a massage asking if it is compatable with a alum block/etc. They did get back to me and confirmed that it is designed to work on the NorthStar engine as well as any other gas or diesel engine. I intend to give this a try this weekend.
It is not a simple leak stop additive. There is a process to using the product.
It is not a simple leak stop additive. There is a process to using the product.
Have any of you tried a product such as: K & W Nanotechnology, Permanent Head gasket and Block repair? http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/co...?PN=401232&S=N
The product is not cheap and is supposed to be guaranteed. I already have it on my shop shelf and bought this winter for those "just in case I need it" moments.
The product is not cheap and is supposed to be guaranteed. I already have it on my shop shelf and bought this winter for those "just in case I need it" moments.
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