Cadillac STS The newest installation of the performance sedan from Cadillac, having replaced the Seville

Rear Intergration Module

  #1  
Old 06-28-2010, 09:44 AM
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Default Rear Intergration Module

On a 2001 STS is the Body Control Module (BCM) the same as the Rear Intergration Module (RIM)? Is one brand recommended over another and where is the best place to buy one.
 
  #2  
Old 06-29-2010, 06:56 AM
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BCM, RIM...... They are different. RIM is responsible for all electrics inside cabin. BCM, would cover the rest and then some. As for the purchase, I would visit any GM dealer for these parts.
 
  #3  
Old 06-29-2010, 09:19 AM
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Thanks rickyd for the info and the quick response. After calling the dealer they listed a dash intergration module also, do you know what the differences are?
 
  #4  
Old 06-29-2010, 12:35 PM
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The DIM controls exterior lights, steerwing wheel controls, horn, IP lamps, A/C sensors, etc.

There are many modules in your car. They all have different functions and many of them communicate via the class II circuit so they can both control the same device. Most of them are in the list you see when you perform the onboard diagnostics with the driver's info center.

I assume there is a problem with the car, because you are searching for modules. Problems are not always fixed by replacing modules. It is more common to find a problem with a circuit, sensor, or device than a bad module.

Perform the onboard diagnostics and post the codes along with the problem. Maybe someone can help you.
 
  #5  
Old 07-01-2010, 07:28 AM
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not sure what your after.... 2001_Seville_SLS has good idea. then we can dig a little more, and be more specific. im not sure if '01 sts has different RIM location, or they call it a Dash Intergration Module. i assume there has to be a module that controls/monitors ALL interior electrics, as my '99 does. On the '99 sts, the RIM is on the passenger side, behind the rear seat "back."
keep us posted please
rickyd
 
  #6  
Old 07-06-2010, 11:13 AM
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I don't have the codes now but I will pull them. The issues I have been having are these, occasionally car won't turn over when the key is inserted and try starting, fuel gauge doesn't work properly, tire air pressure reading are off, outside air temputure is off. These are what come to mind right now, about 3 weeks ago I reset the computer by disconnecting the neg. battery terminal for 20 minutes. The only thing that I have experienced since then is occasionally the car not turning over when the key is inserted.
 
  #7  
Old 07-06-2010, 11:25 AM
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your prob with car not turning over is probably a starter going bad. when it does start, do you notice the starter dragging, (turning slow).???
rickyd
 
  #8  
Old 07-07-2010, 07:17 AM
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No, it turns over fine.
 
  #9  
Old 07-07-2010, 10:22 AM
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I think the module and the starter are OK. There is probably a bad connection somewhere in a circuit that is providing electrical resistance causing a voltage drop along the circuit. When you disconnected and reconnected the battery negative terminal it could have restored that connection enough to improve the electrical flow. A little power can be lost due to resistance at various locations until it is enough to cause the problem. The types of places along the circuit that can cause low voltage are: weak battery, poor battery connection, faulty ignition switch, corrosion coating a connector terminal, corrosion coating fuse a terminal, and faulty relay. Corrosion can be light grey similar in color to the terminal. The problem can be on the positive or ground side of a circuit.

Here are some things you can do:

A voltage drop test is conducted with the circuit connected and powered up. You will need a multimeter and a metal probe to touch the circuit without disconnecting a connector. Various things like temperature, humidity and movement can affect a poor connection. Perform the test under the conditions where the problem is active with the ignition ON but not running.

Perform voltage drop tests between the battery positive post to the positive cable, and between the battery negative post to the negative cable.

Check the conductivity thru the Rear IGN SW fuse terminals with a voltage drop test between the battery positive and the downstream Rear IGN SW fuse terminal. It controls power to the ignition switch and various other circuits.

Check the conductivity thru the ignition switch with a voltage drop test between the downstream Rear IGN SW fuse terminal and some relay control positive terminals. (The terminals that are hot in ON.) Check Rear IGN1, Front IGN 1, and Start 1 relays.

Check conductivity between battery positive and downstream Front PCM IGN fuse terminal. It controls power to the starter solenoid.

Perform similar voltage drop tests between the relay's control negative terminal and the battery negative terminal. The relay's control negative terminal will be diagonally opposed to the control positive terminal.
 
  #10  
Old 07-07-2010, 06:17 PM
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Car does not have a "BCM" - the IPC (cluster), DIM, & RIM handle the functions. Codes would be very helpful. Intermitent no starts are no fun...Check fuel pressure when it won't start, FPR hose leaking fuel - can cause extended crank, poor connections at coils and crank sensors. Unfortuneately there is not and easy way to check coil pack. access to scanner would be very handy. Good Luck
 

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