electric issues e-ghosts...rear integration module, (RIM)
#21
09-24-2007, 09:34 PM
RE: electric issues e-ghosts...all over
After surfing around here's what I think you should do. Clear the codes. You have a record of them here so maybe you want to print them out. I am assumimg you know how to clear codes. Then disconnect neagtive battery terminal for 10 to 20 minutes. Reconnect and then do the GM driving cycle as explained below:
Complete driving cycle will perform diagnostics on all monitored systems and can usually be completed in less than fifteen minutes.
Performing a GM OBD-II Driving cycle:
[ul][*]Cold Start In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F (50°C) and within 11°F (6°C) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.[*]Idle The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.[*]Accelerate Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph (88km/hr) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.[*]Hold Steady Speed Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.[*]Decelerate Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph (32km/hr). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.[*]Accelerate Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph (88-96 km/hr). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.[*]Hold Steady Speed Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.[*]Decelerate This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.[/ul]
After that check the codes again, hopefully the gremlins will be gone.
Complete driving cycle will perform diagnostics on all monitored systems and can usually be completed in less than fifteen minutes.
Performing a GM OBD-II Driving cycle:
[ul][*]Cold Start In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F (50°C) and within 11°F (6°C) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.[*]Idle The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.[*]Accelerate Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph (88km/hr) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.[*]Hold Steady Speed Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.[*]Decelerate Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph (32km/hr). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.[*]Accelerate Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph (88-96 km/hr). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.[*]Hold Steady Speed Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.[*]Decelerate This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.[/ul]
After that check the codes again, hopefully the gremlins will be gone.
#22
09-24-2007, 09:58 PM
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: pennsylvania
Posts: 1,319
RE: electric issues e-ghosts...all over
god katz....... thats good stuff......... thanks....thanks alot for that time.......... i'll be on that this week end when i am off road..(doing that work thing).. and be back at ya...... i'm hoping that will work...... i was about to have it taken to the shop......... now i'll give this a try...... when i got the sts in jan it was doing this..Gremlins all over.......thought it had cured during summer, reworked 4 - 5 grounds....... now all sorts of issues, as you have seen..with codes......... thanks again
rickyd
rickyd
#24
09-30-2007, 03:19 PM
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: pennsylvania
Posts: 1,319
RE: electric issues e-ghosts...all over
ORIGINAL: Katzmans Caddy
After surfing around here's what I think you should do. Clear the codes. You have a record of them here so maybe you want to print them out. I am assumimg you know how to clear codes. Then disconnect neagtive battery terminal for 10 to 20 minutes. Reconnect and then do the GM driving cycle as explained below:
Complete driving cycle will perform diagnostics on all monitored systems and can usually be completed in less than fifteen minutes.
Performing a GM OBD-II Driving cycle:
[ul][*]Cold Start In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F (50°C) and within 11°F (6°C) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.[*]Idle The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.[*]Accelerate Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph (88km/hr) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.[*]Hold Steady Speed Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.[*]Decelerate Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph (32km/hr). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.[*]Accelerate Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph (88-96 km/hr). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.[*]Hold Steady Speed Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.[*]Decelerate This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.[/ul]
After that check the codes again, hopefully the gremlins will be gone.
After surfing around here's what I think you should do. Clear the codes. You have a record of them here so maybe you want to print them out. I am assumimg you know how to clear codes. Then disconnect neagtive battery terminal for 10 to 20 minutes. Reconnect and then do the GM driving cycle as explained below:
Complete driving cycle will perform diagnostics on all monitored systems and can usually be completed in less than fifteen minutes.
Performing a GM OBD-II Driving cycle:
[ul][*]Cold Start In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F (50°C) and within 11°F (6°C) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.[*]Idle The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.[*]Accelerate Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph (88km/hr) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.[*]Hold Steady Speed Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.[*]Decelerate Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph (32km/hr). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.[*]Accelerate Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph (88-96 km/hr). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.[*]Hold Steady Speed Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.[*]Decelerate This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.[/ul]
After that check the codes again, hopefully the gremlins will be gone.
rickyd
#25
09-30-2007, 04:42 PM
GM and Cadillac electric issues e-ghosts ... all over ...
keep me posted .. this is FAQ Material ...
added to the FAQ thread of
Cadillac GM e-ghosts electric problems
https://www.cadillacforum.com/m_6068/tm.htm
added to the FAQ thread of
Cadillac GM e-ghosts electric problems
https://www.cadillacforum.com/m_6068/tm.htm
#26
10-01-2007, 08:13 AM
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: pennsylvania
Posts: 1,319
RE: GM and Cadillac electric issues e-ghosts ... all over ...
ok guys.......... keeping you posted, out this morning...my coffee run.... let the sts run all the time......trip took 15min.....sts warmed up to running temp.....home....parked and ran codes......i couldn't keep up......i think it would be better if i told you which ones didn't come up.......my first ghost thru the dash was the fuel gague flipping to E, then back to full...then 3sec she goes back to E and sets (tank is full)......then went in for coffee, let it run......back out the security yellow light on...drove, and then get mess...SERVICE SECURITY SYS......thats a new one.... intermittent outside mirrors, inop....dr locks inop.... entire inside e-ghosts................any thoughts?????? oh yesterday my bose started cutting out (couple sec) then on.....I CAN"T HAVE THIS......need my radio..... this car needs an exercist........HELP....please
rickyd
rickyd
#28
10-01-2007, 08:40 AM
RE: GM and Cadillac electric issues e-ghosts ... all over ...
ok .. remind us what you have done so far .. item by item?
starting with my #1 question .. have you disconnected connector by connector, sprayed with contact cleaner and lubed with di-electric? that would also apply to the huge connectors on the computers themselves.
let me put it this way .. have you ever plugged something at home into an outlet and had to wiggle the plug to get it to work? well, you dont have that option in a car. the dozens if not hundreds, of contacts have to be PERFECT !
[align=center]PERFECT !
[/align]
.
#29
10-01-2007, 09:27 AM
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: pennsylvania
Posts: 1,319
RE: GM and Cadillac electric issues e-ghosts ... all over ...
ok.... i guess i haven't found the connection(s) that is the bad....... "where is the computer on this sts".......and do you think it is one or two bad connections with the 15 grounds on this car....i do. ......and can we rule out or key in on one or two specificly?.......
what i'v done.....1- cleaned and di-electric the two grounds under rear seat.. (i still think, its there, and am going to redo them) the main battery 1 and
one that comes in from the trunk...... this was done last year
2-also had g100, and g102 cleaned by a tech, here where i live.
3- new cluster got really takin on that......
4- new ignition switch
keep in mind.... the sts ran new all summer long, no E-Ghosts......its when the weather turned damp the E-Ghosts reappeared
thanks Stomper....thanks Katz......thanks Stealth............. you guys are the best
what i'v done.....1- cleaned and di-electric the two grounds under rear seat.. (i still think, its there, and am going to redo them) the main battery 1 and
one that comes in from the trunk...... this was done last year
2-also had g100, and g102 cleaned by a tech, here where i live.
3- new cluster got really takin on that......
4- new ignition switch
keep in mind.... the sts ran new all summer long, no E-Ghosts......its when the weather turned damp the E-Ghosts reappeared
thanks Stomper....thanks Katz......thanks Stealth............. you guys are the best
#30
10-01-2007, 10:23 AM
RE: GM and Cadillac electric issues e-ghosts ... all over ...
ORIGINAL: rickyd
ok.... i guess i haven't found the connection(s) that is the bad....... "where is the computer on this sts".......and do you think it is one or two bad connections with the 15 grounds on this car....i do. ......and can we rule out or key in on one or two specificly?.......
what i'v done.....
1- cleaned and di-electric the two grounds under rear seat.. (i still think, its there, and am going to redo them) the main battery 1 and one that comes in from the trunk...... this was done last year
2-also had g100, and g102 cleaned by a tech, here where i live.
3- new cluster got really takin on that......
4- new ignition switch
keep in mind.... the sts ran new all summer long, no E-Ghosts......its when the weather turned damp the E-Ghosts reappeared
thanks Stomper....thanks Katz......thanks Stealth............. you guys are the best
ok.... i guess i haven't found the connection(s) that is the bad....... "where is the computer on this sts".......and do you think it is one or two bad connections with the 15 grounds on this car....i do. ......and can we rule out or key in on one or two specificly?.......
what i'v done.....
1- cleaned and di-electric the two grounds under rear seat.. (i still think, its there, and am going to redo them) the main battery 1 and one that comes in from the trunk...... this was done last year
2-also had g100, and g102 cleaned by a tech, here where i live.
3- new cluster got really takin on that......
4- new ignition switch
keep in mind.... the sts ran new all summer long, no E-Ghosts......its when the weather turned damp the E-Ghosts reappeared
thanks Stomper....thanks Katz......thanks Stealth............. you guys are the best
"when the weather turned damp the E-Ghosts reappeared "
THAT my friend, points to only TWO things.
a) oxidized connections
b) a cracked / damaged electronic component or connector, including BCM / ECM computers. I actually found one such bad component by applying a hair drier on high heat to each item see when the issue went away.
"3- new cluster got really takin on that......"
a highly suspect "electronic" item as well as the connections to it
if i was a gambling man, i be betting on these.
Of course, what info you provide has to be correct.