(1997 Cadillac Eldorado--great car!!)

Ok, here's the situation: I've had problems with what I believe to be the fuel pump. About 10% of the time, the car will not start as it should. By this I mean, I have to damn near burn up my starter and pump the accelerator (I'm sure it being a fuel-injected car this does nothing except make me think I'm having a positive effect on it) before it finally catches and fires right up. No big deal. 10% I can deal with. I figured either bad pump, injector, lines, blah blah. On to my real problem...

The other day I went to start it and had the above problem. I did my little technique to no avail. I waited a few minutes and tried again. No go. The third time I cranked it, nothing happened at all--no sounds period. I thought I burned up my starter but then noticed my DIC reading a message about "Starting disabled...theft system detected." I called AAA to tow it but because I placed the e-brake on, it wouldn't release without the car running and being in Drive.

After messing with the gear shift, I tried cranking it in Neutral and IT WORKED!!! But then the DIC read "Theft system problem...car may not restart." I drove it to the dealer who diagnosed the problem to be in my PCM (apparently Cadillac language for the Body Control Module (BCM)). They told me the part listed for $550, labor costs of $150, and tax would fix the problem. I said no for now and drove it home and have been plowing my way through a bunch of threads and posts of people who are way more knowledgeable on this ____ than me.

I've outlined the information I've found so far and would like it very much if someone who knows this issue would help me put together a solid gameplan. I'm no mechanic by ANY means and I will probably end up taking this plan to the dealer and getting their mechanics to execute it. Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated!

The problems and solutions I have found on this issue thus far are many:

1. PASS Keys:
o Bad Resistor -- take keys to dealer and have them tested.
o Try using the spare key (I did and same message).
2. DTCs:
o Pull DTCs (whatever that is).
3. Replace the cluster:
4. Ignition Lock Cylinder
o Bad chip
o Bad Ignition wiring issue
o Bad contacts in the ignition cylinder.
5. Bypassing the VATS
o This may lead to a $2 resistor and a very cheap fix.
6. Two rack actuators and wiring missing/damaged inside the column.
o If so, bypass the lock and actuator using a 1/8" diameter steel rod.
7. Nuisance code:
o Suggestion is to "pause between key positions when starting the car to let the computer catch up to all the diagnostics on flash up."
8. Reset the computer:
o Disconnect the ground from the battery and leave off for several hours to reset computer.
9. VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System) is a "widely known" problem.
o $75 parts cost (including keys), make sure the resistance matches current ones.
o Bypass the VATS ($30)--if so, "make sure the person patches into the VATS wires on the column-side of the plug," in case if ever in the future fixing it correctly is easy and cheap.
ยง Measure the resistance of the key pellet, purchase one of equal measurement at Radio Shack for $1, then locate the two pin connectors under the steering colum and slice in the resistor.
o Make sure VATS is the same or a tad higher than what is currently on it, otherwise GM cars will not start.
o Bad decoder/reader, which are located in Timbuktu inside the dash.



http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=5147
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t326861.html
http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/lofiver...php/t3155.html
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-deville-1985-2005-including-1985/119604-theft-system-problem-car-may-not.html

 

If pcm is bad there should be code(s) stored. What exactly did dealer say was wrong? Also was it a GM dealer?

 

Thanks for the response. Yes, it was a GM dealer.

The dealer did not mention anything about codes, just that it'd cost me $700 to fix it. Do you think they would have recorded the codes on my file with them--so if I call, they would have a record of the pcm codes?

I found the part online for half the price they were charging me, but after reading what others have written I'm wondering whether I should just drive it until it gives out or if there is an alternative solution (i.e., bypassing thevats).

Thoughts?

 

I would get second opinion, 90% of the time lock cylinder is the failed part. Driving to it fails means towing $$ on top of repair. It seems they want too much to repair it. You could press for more info from dealer concerning diagnosis.

 

I will press the dealer for more info later this week. If it is the lock cylinder how much would you estimate the part cost?

 

Ok, I have the same problem, except i have no communication with any of the modules ( PCM, PZM, IPC...etc) tried 2 scanners, to no avail. Also tried accessing the OBD through the temp control...again no Data. Have voltage at the DLC, and B+ and grounds at PCM harness. Both battery grounds are clean, and tight. Cranks and starts for about 3 secs...and thats it. [sm=headbang.gif][sm=headbang.gif][sm=headbang.gif]

 

Need more info, year and model. On Board not working isn't good. Any mods?

 

Thanks to the experience of forum, I had a similar problem cured. My 98 Eldorado would not start and showed "starter disabled" on display. I found a mechanic that would bypass the the passkey, and everything works great. Instead of the estimated $800 for the Caddy dealer to fix, my guy only charged $100.

 

HELLO!!
Now that is a lot of brass air fittings there is just about every type
of air fitting that you could want. Wholesale prices too. I guess these could be used as small water pipe fitting also. I
used some of the parts to make my babington wvo bu
THANK YOU.

 

Hi everyone, I'm encountering a similar situation.The car it does crank but won't start at all. Firstly I tried to bypass the VATS but I have noticed that those 2 white wires from ignition have same ohms like my pellet key( 2.37 / #8),However when I bypassed it the car won't even crank and I got :STARTING DISABLED DUE TO THEFT/REMOVE KEY......Then I realized that the problem is something else. Therse is no Security light on or flashing at all but I have PRND321 Flashing as soon as I put the key in ignition.I cleaned both battery terminal, checked all fuses.
I took the car to the dealer for diagnostic($99/hr.) The called me next day and ask me for $500.00 deposit ,claiming that their mecahnics spent already 2 hours and couldn't find what's the problem.The only thing they have told me was that there is no communication between those modules(pcm/bcm,vats....)
I'm desperate , I don't know what to do, my other car had a suspension failure and is undriveable(Mark VIII).
Please Help!!!!