Heyas,

I am in the process of buying a 96 Deville Concourse. Pearl White, fully loaded sans moonroof. Was a livery car. I am buying it to give to my father as a kind of xmas gift, a replacement for his beater Explorer that's always breaking down (he's on a fixed income).

I have some questions, and not being very knowledgeable on Caddy's, I thought this would be the best place to ask.

First, about the car:

150K miles.
Carfax = no incidents of any kind, VIN checks, mileage checks.
Trade in at a caddy dealer in Linden, pushed to their secondary/sattelite lot because of age/mileage.
Body is nearly perfect - only a couple of minor issues: 1) Airdam looks like it ran up on a curb, 2) Two quarter sized bare metal spots, one each at the corner of the front grill, top where it meets the hood, 3) Surface rust, about a quarter sized spot, under license plate inset.
Engine - Starts smooth, idles smooth, plenty of power, no smoking, no major leaks, not been steam cleaned, no tapping noises or sounds of mechanical distress from the compressor/waterpump/breakbooster/steeringpump. Oil needs change, but not overly dirty our foul. A look in the engine at the oil fill port shows no buildup or burned up oil.
Transmission - Shifts smoothly to each gear while driving, shifts into gear (D and R as well as numbered gears) smoothly and quickly (less than 1 second).
Suspension - Assuming these cars have a light, floating suspension. Rides smooth, no noises, handles potholes well without bottoming out even with three people in the car.
Steering - Drives straight, no pump noise, seems aligned.
Brakes - Stops, no fade from speed or after a couple of sharp stops, no noise, no booster noise.
Exhaust - Whisper quiet, no excessive burn carbon at the tips (for this high of miles at least).
Interior - steering wheel and leather cap/top of front arm rest have some minor wear. Dash 'cover' materialaround defrost vent has peeled up but is not discolored or torn, just unglued. Everything else is fine, especially for it's age (rear seats are near perfect, fronts show some wear but nothing worn out or cracked).
Tires/Rims - 1/4 tread up front and 3/4 in rear, no noticeable cupping or wear. Rims missing center caps.
Power Accessories - All work. Front passenger side window is a bit noisey. Switch for driver recline is unseated from original position but functional, needs to be reinserted/mounted in original position.
lights - All fine, work fine, no fogginess or perperation in headlights.
Trunk - molded side carpets have sagged a bit.
Window/door seals - all seem fine.
AC/Heat - controls seem to work fine, cold air but not freezing, plenty of hot air, no odors. Blower motor on higher settings is a bit rumbly and loud but it blows hard.

Okay, I know this is getting long but I don't really want to post a bunch of different posts and clutter things up.

I have the car held with a deposit. Conditions for final purchase and paperwork include them putting it up on a rack so I can inspect underneath. I plant to look for tranny and engine oil leaks (though a brief inspection in a dim parking lot with a small light showed nothing major, and again they haven't steamed the engine or underbody from the looks of it). If there are no leaks or anything I should be looking for then it's mine on Wed this week.

Between now and xmas, when I have to drive it from NJ to central IL I want to get the little things fixed and do as much preventative maintenance to it as possible.

The Plan:

1) Take it to a meineke or firestone to have the brakes, suspension, exhaust, tires, and steering inspected. Oil change. Tranny fluid change. Check radiator fluid, change if needed. Check air and cabin filters, change if neccessary. Wiper blades checked and changed if needed. Either rotate tires or buy new fronts, as needed. Alignment check. Belts.
2) Buy replacement/reproduction center caps.
3) Fix the paint spots I mentioned.
4) Steering wheel cover.
5) Floor mats
6) Tack back in place the molded carpet in the trunk.

The questions:

1) Before I buy, is there anything specific I should check out or look for that I haven't thought of? I already checked all the lights, accessories, seals, test drive with an eye towards checking all the mechanical stuff as well as suspension/brakes, carfax, body panel alignment and paint matching/gaps, tires, shifting, idling, leaks, etc. I tried to use a pretty extensive used car buying checklist in looking it over.
2) Assuming I find nothing major wrong after going on the lift and looking into items you guys and gals might suggest, what kinds of maintenance things should I be looking at beyond the obvious stuff I listed. Would it be worth my money and time to go to a caddy dealer to have them check the ecu codes?
3) I hear the Northstar V8 32V engine in this is reliable as ist he tranny. I don't know if either has been 'rebuilt' or replaced. At least out here in the NYC area most livery drivers pile on the miles but usually take care of regular and unexpected maintenance/repairs. Is there anything I should look for additionally pre-sale or post sale, any preventitive maintenance I haven't thought of. The goal is a comfortable, safe, RELIABLE car for my parents.
4) For touching up this paint, the pearl white, I hear it is not simple. Any tips or info on this? Any sources for the paint and other needed supplies I can't pick up at an auto store?
5) I want to take out the entire light and plate inset assembly on the trunk to make sure that if the rust is more extensive than just the little bit of surface stuff I see it is fixed. Any instructions or guides on this? Is this a common place for rust to crop up on this model?
7) Any guides or info on checking the passenger side, front window and greasing it or adjusting it for noise?
8) I assume that the blower, a slightly deep and louder than expected for a luxo car, needs some service of some kind. Is this a common issue? Cleaning? Replacement? Cost?
9) How sturdy is the driver's seat. My father is a big, big guy (over 6', close to 400lbs). In some cars in the past he has had to actually prop it up or brace it (cheaper cars), but not all (explorer seat has held up fine, for instance).
10) Am I better off leaving the center arm rest alone or looking for some kind of replacement/cover for the worn leather on the cap? it's not terrible, but if there is a 'cheap' fix I am game.
11) Any source for center caps on this model? Cheap sources in this case (I hear they are commonly ripped off, not too important to get top of the line here).

Okay, first post, it's long, sorry. I do greatly appreciate any help, advice, or info, links, guides, etc. Unfortunately I am a bit 'busy' these days with work and the looming holidays, so I figured rather than spend weeks going back in forth in multiple threads with helpful and knowledgeable folks I would keep it in one thread. I am a GM guy mostly, active member on Grand Prix forums as well as now a mitsu forum to cover my new LancerGTS I got a few months ago. I know cars pretty well and am not scared to do some work (have tools, ramps, crawler, and have done some modding as well as general maintenance on my own).

Anything you can throw my way here is greatly appreciated!!!

 

It sound like you may have found good car.Biggest down side is engine, oil leaks are$$$, minor seeping is tollerable depending price of car.Lower crankcase reseal will knock you back 3k+, .You also want to hit express way for atleast a 70+mph road test for 20 min. to check for overheating.Head gaskets will knock you back atleast 4500. Engine around 9-10k for reman.,maybe 1/2 of that for a used engine installed.Trans is fairly bullet proof, major failures a not common, so if engines ok - you should be ok.Hope it helps

 

Slowroll, what do you think about getting a compression test done on that Northstar and a pressure test on the cooling system? Could offer some peace of mind.

 

Whoa... that's money. Worse than fraken mini-vans. I know it's tight in the bay and transverse mounted, by why so expensive.

I had heard these engines were pretty bullet proof... that kind of makes it sound otherwise.

Overheats... what should I be looking for??? If it doesn't OH, what then, what do I look for?

 

How much would the avg cost on those two at the dealer? I think they might do it, my cost, since they are caddy owned just up the street.

 

A couple of pics:







As you can see... not 'perfect'. But for the age and miles not bad, especially for 2200 bucks. As long as the motor and tranny are solid/reliable for some in-town (small town central illinois) and occasional 200 mile forrays to chicago then great.

 

I believe the best way to evaluate Northstars is to drive them on highway. They hide head gasket failures, I never have see coolant in oil and the only one to smoke,That is the one I just bought and I am hoping it was mis-diagnosed. A super clean 94 eldo.Engines have some concerns due to oil leaks and they don't like to run hot.But I only have seen one engine fail own it own - broken connecting rod - back in 1995

 

Why so expensive?It's really a detuned racing engine.8k factory redline, have heard of engines turning over 10k on dynos for hours.The closest thing to dry sump in wet sump engine.To go to Indy,Olds just had to make revision to the block.Too bad GM killed Olds, but they left their mark with the engines they left behind.

 

How expensive are tune ups? It doesn't hesitate, idle rough, fires up right away but I might want to do one preventively assuming all else is well.

 

Tune up should cost 275. or less, however plug wires wires could set you back about 400.installed. For 2200, if it passes express way test its sounds like you are getting good deal.If you do get it call local dealer with last 8 of vin ,will start with T,to check for recalls Specifically 04014c to aviod CAR ON FIRE.