I don't want to spend $350.00 to have it done. Anyone have a link to a step by step to R & R front rotors & pads on a '03 DTS?



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These are a piece of a cake.

1. Take off the tire.
2. Remove the 10mm bolt on the bottom of the caliper just below where the pad is located.
3. The top pin doesn't come off.
4. Take a big screw driver or a crow bar and simply flip the caliper frame up and that will reveal the pads.
5. Take the cover off the brake resevoir and collapse the piston.
6. Slide the new pads in.
7. Flip the caliper back down over the pads.
8. Replace the 10mm bolt (freshen the grease on it a little).
9. Put the resevoir cap back on.
10. Put the tire back on.

 

Why in the world do you want to replace the rotors on a 4 year odl car?

I cant hardly wait for this answer.

 

What if they are warped or grooved?

 

Damaged components should always be replaced, but they are only 4 years old.
will shall see why ....

 

Obviously, rotors should be inspected EVERY time pads are changed regardless of age.

 

I have a 2001 Deville 180" limo and a 2003 Deville sedan,,,these are so easy to R&R,,,If I have any need to turn them I take them to a dealer and for 20 bucks they will turn them( IF NEEDED). I do my own pad swap and it is very easy,,,dont pay big bucks. They wanted $150 to do my limo ones,Just because it is a limo they think they can charge way more(it has truck rotots/pads but it is not harder to R&R than regular ones..8 lug vs 6 lugs).Learn to do easy stuff and save money.

 

Well said. ON BOTH accounts!
IF it ain't broken, don't fix it !

Dont do the rotors unless they need it. Usually not required.
IMHO, the so called "glazing" is not a reason. Every rotor gets "glazed" after a few stops.

As Gary eluded to: warped, grooved, cracked, damaged .. yes.
Rotors tend to
get warped AFTER being turned,
get cracked AFTER being turned,
get grooved AFTER the pads wear beyond the limit.

Keep an close eye on the pads and you will probably never have to replace or turn a rotor.
Inspect the pads for thickness once a year or more often if you drive lots of stop and go traffic
or mountain driving.

In my life, I have yet to turn or replace a rotor unless it got grooved, something that has has
happened three times.

1st car, a pad failed damaging the rotor (defect?),

2nd car, a caliper failed to retract due to cruddy brake fluid and held the pad against the rotor,
(lost caliper, rotor and bearings - therefore now i flush brake systems each time I put new pads),

3rd car, pads worn down to the ribbets (I had not checked them .. duhhh)

All three, no turning, replaced with new rotors. I prefer fat and full thickness rotors. But that is me.

 

I bought the car w/115000 miles and the previous owner had recently just put pads on. It had a mild plusation then. Now I have 133000 miles the pads are on the sensors and the rotors are under spec. Anything else I should know to replace the rotors? I'm also planning on using ceramic pads. Does anyone have the torque rating on the cailper bolts?

 

THERE YOU GO ! Rotors were turned, now they are warped !
There is NO choice, replace.

Ceramic pads? agghghghgh ..

Why? They wont stop you very well until they warm up,
They chew rotors much faster, but they are cleaner on the rims ..
Great for heavy duty cars, mountain driving, racing, etc.
IMO, not a good idea on normal duty usage.

That is a lot of miles .. you gonna FLUSH the system, right?
Check the rear pads?
Grease the wheel bearings?
Inspect the ebrake cables and grease if and where needed?


shoot us a pic of the car .. we just like pics .. for no reason except to post it.