Aluminum Block V8s 4.1, 4.5, 4.6, and 4.9 liter engines.

Oil stop Leak

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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 11:20 PM
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Default Oil stop Leak

Just wondering if anyone had any experience with any oil stop leaks on these northstars? mine started leaking at 108K been since. I once used bars leak "rear main seal repair" and it actually stopped it for about 3 days then came back. it said it treated 4-6 quarts maybe i didnt use enough? shuda used 2 ? The leak is coming from up bewteen the trans on drivers side. stright up to the side bewteen the tans and that exhaust pipe that croses under oil pan. rear seal probably..
i know stop leaks are a temp fix but im definately not loooking to pull motor or trans. with usage and leak bout qt every 650-750 miles.
anyone try lucas oil stop leak?? or any stop leka w/ success? thanks
 
Old Oct 28, 2009 | 07:08 AM
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Could also be the pan itself leaking....we see a lot of these in the shop with the pan and lower block extension leaking. I've never used any "stop leak" for engine oils, so I can't help with that.
 
Old Oct 28, 2009 | 07:53 AM
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if it is pan...not sure, though take and get under and give a "little" snug to pan bolts as you whould lugs after you got them tight. that may help somewhat.
i also will not start N* in excess of 100k unless i can warm'er up to 1/2 temp gauge at least. no short trips to corner store.
rickyd

oh, if i do use additive......Lucas only.......... good stuff.
 
Old Oct 28, 2009 | 09:25 AM
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i also find a lot of lose pan bolts in cars leaking oil .. but be careful.

its best to torque them but lacking a torque wrench, i turn them using a socket w/o the handle/wrench until they stop, then with a wrench I tighten them another 1/4 turn.
afterwords, even if the leak is still there, do not tighten them any more, you will probably ruin your day if you do.

i love the Lucas Fix for Transmissions, but I have no experience with the other Lucas products.




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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 10:48 AM
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Yes exactly I did snug up bout 4 botls under tgere about 2 weeks ago still going leak thou. To change pan gasket the exhaust has to be removed off front header/exhaust manifold correct? Look like adding couple bottles in.
 
Old Oct 29, 2009 | 07:20 AM
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i think i priced that at dealer, change oil pan gasket to be close to one large.... $1000. crazy, but if you want to s*** big, you spend big.....lol
rick
 
Old Nov 2, 2009 | 10:35 AM
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Yea that's just nuts lol. Well anyway put that Lucas stop leak in. 1.5 quarts/bottles to b exact. So far it looks like I checked yesterday it greatly slowed it down. Ill check today and next few to be sure how it' working and repost.
 
Old Nov 2, 2009 | 07:03 PM
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If you can find a product that stops Northstars from leaking in a can, get a piece of the action because they will make a ton of money. Pulling trans to replace seal should not cost 1k. However most of the time it is a leak between the case halves/lower crankcase to block, which can run additional 1.5-2.5k to correct. (Depending on your area) Unfortunately you won't know what you have till you get there. As most machines age seals,gaskets, and sealers fail; the "miracle cure in a can" is merely a "band aid" attempt to correct it normally just prior to selling/trading it off. Note: Cost to replace oil pan gasket is so high because of exhaust crossover pipe - trans has to be removed to remove it. It bolts to block and trans is in the way.
 
Old Nov 3, 2009 | 06:19 PM
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wow pretty penny there, well as for band-aid it's good right now. Looked earlier It was completly dry down there. This was Sat i put it in. Be sure to keep posted of any changes. And still have a half quart left, after a little oil consumption, i will be sure add the other half.
*also today guy came into autozone bought lucas trans additive, poured it in parking lot, came back in litteraly 4 mins later, and said it stopped his sliiping ranger trans..." Wow what a product.*
 
Old Nov 3, 2009 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 99STSGUY
wow pretty penny there, well as for band-aid it's good right now. Looked earlier It was completly dry down there. This was Sat i put it in. Be sure to keep posted of any changes. And still have a half quart left, after a little oil consumption, i will be sure add the other half.
*also today guy came into autozone bought lucas trans additive, poured it in parking lot, came back in litteraly 4 mins later, and said it stopped his sliiping ranger trans..." Wow what a product.*
there are two types of leaks, one is just wear and time and the other is lack of use and drying out.

the A/C is highly and severely susceptible to drying out if you dont use it ... the seals dry out and you got a overhaul in your hands. i run my A/C at least once every two months, summer/winter/fall/rain/shine/etc .. to avoid this issue .. my 4x4 is a 1987 model, 160,000 miles running to this day on original compressor, system, Freon 12, no leaks.

some of the external seals on engine and transmission behave the same way when dry or worn .. the "stop leak" products like LUCAS simply soak into the seals, sometimes make the seals swell a bit and reestablish the seal by becoming "SOFT" again .. it cannot fix worn seals, but may help with "dry" seals.

those 15 year old garage queens suffer greatly from such drying out ills .. ...

a very long ways of saying that whether Lucas leak fix will reestablish the sealing depends on why the seal is leaking.

the LUCAS trans fix is a miracle cure .. i fixed the slip on one Cadillac with it and the next week I put it in every car I own .. I love the stuff .. all the cars returned to snappy firm shifting and solid gear engagement.

like slowroll said, it may not work on all engines .. but .. IMO, its sure worth the $15, with a money back guarantee .. if it doesnt work, you are no worse than when you started.

the best way to keep an engine from leaking is to use it often.


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Last edited by stomper; Nov 3, 2009 at 07:34 PM.



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