My engine is still running warmer than it use too. I know i have a leak into one of my cylinders, but the gm pellets are working for now. The temp doesn't rise until the thermostat opens. Can this be from the head gasket leaking. I was going to try replacing my thermostat AGAIN and eliminate that, if not i was thinking to change the water pumpnext (not sure when or if its been changed before). I think I can live with the warmer temp but trying to do everything possible to run normal due to leak in head gasket. After i finish this I was going to install the Dexcool and try a bottle of that head gasket and block repair by nanotechnology and see if it works better than the gm pellets. Any help please advise

 

remind me, does your car have a radiator cap?


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No radiator cap it has an overfill tank with a pressurized cap on it. Its new also

 

Im pretty sure i finally found my heat problem. The gm pellets are restricting the water flow at the thermostat. Thats why it would heat up a little then drop back down and so on. Nothing was ever consistent. I knew when the temp guage inside the car was above normal that I could use a hand held infared thermometer and see the temp was about 225 on engine side of thermostat and 170 on the other. Last night I put a brand new thermostat in and it did the same thing, so I removed cover plate on watetr pump and it was good. I flushed everything out put just water back in and it worked fine. So going to get some dexcool today and use the bottle of head and gasket repair mfg by K&W and see if it works, its a liquid so it shouldnt block the thermostat. what a journey

 

Assuming that is a correct diagnosis, read on ...

The old "if a little is good, then more should be even better" does not work with the coolant supplement / tabs.

If previous owners have been adding more of the stuff without removing some the old stuff in the system, of course, things will clog.

If the thermostat is clogging with excessive supplement, for sure, there is too much in there. If that is the case, most likely your car also has a clogging heater core and you should remove the hoses to it and back flush it.



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Well I'm sure you techs can probably relate to this. I thought i had my overheating problem figured out, but not till now. Sure you saw this one coming . Of course the head gasket repair in a can stopped the water from entering into my cylinder but it didn't stop the pressure from building up in my radiator. I took my car to radiator shop yesterday thinking that all the tablets and junk i put in it gummed it up. My upper radiator hose was extremely hot and the bottom was cold. The radiator tech told me after I decided to put a new radiator in that I had a blown head. i asked how he knew and he said he could smell it out the exhaust and that the pressure from blown head ripped open the radiator inside causing it not to cool. With new radiator it only heated up one line pass normal and dropped back down to normal just like it did wayyyyyyyyy back when all this started. So I'm not going to drive anymore. I found a motor here in Jackson Ms. with 94000 miles for $1300 and a local junkyard will install for $700, hard to beat huh. Any pointers from here. Probably a silly ? but how much easier is it to change bad motor mounts between swapping motors opposed to after installed. thanks

 

It was pretty good for me. Not only did it get me my first GP top 8 but it proved to me that I need to continue to put my principles before passion. Had I not given in and decided to go with what I was touting as the "best deck" in the format, I would have been running G/B at the gp and undoubtedly a day 1 finish at best.

 

Well I'm finally going to put another engine in my sls. Want some recommendations on anything I should do to new used motor (94000 miles) if anything. Should I change oil pan gasket or etc to avoid upcoming oil leak ? Any other modifications. Thanks

 

do a compression test before you pay for it or before you install it.


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What is good compression on this motor.