Old setup:
Factory 150 amp generator, factory battery, 75aH Optima Yellow top, Battery Isolator (250A Relay controlled by homemade time delay module on Run circuit, 1200W Power Inverter, 2 subs at 250x2 @ 2 Ohms (500w RMS). Rewired dome lights, factory head unit, and factory amp to run off the Optima battery.

New Plan:
Rebuilt Limo Generator 220A, factory battery, 75aH Optima Yellow top (Will replace with 2 same when finances allow.), Battery Isolator, 1200W Power Inverter, 2 subs at 250x2 @ 2 Ohms (500W RMS). Rewired dome lights, factory head unit, and factory amp to run off the Optima battery. 1 Farad Cap to smooth out the bass draw, onboard automatic battery charger.

Future Maybes:
Aftermarket Head Unit, 1 or 2 15s to hit some low notes power TBD, Additional pure sine inverter, car pc, CB, MISC.


Hi,
I previously installed a second battery in my 2008 DTS. I just realized I overlooked something with my design, the Battery Current Sensor. I am in the process of fixing it, and am hoping I can talk to someone with dealer contacts or perhaps a tech. At the least someone quite familiar with the electrical systems in these cars.

I attached some diagrams of what I previously changed as well as my new plan.

My generator went out and while fixing it I will be doing "The Big 3" as well as replacing the radiator due to a small leak.

I have a feeling my generator burning out is due partly to draining the battery low while listening to music and allowing the generator to charge it all the way back up, but I have a feeling the main culprit could possibly be the fact that the battery current sensor was still in the factory location on the ground cable with none of my added wiring running through it.
My understanding of how the charging system functions at least partially is, the Battery Current sensor sends its info to the BCM, the BCM processes the data and sends it to the ECM to make the final decision on what to do in regard to the charging situation.

So given the current set up, the sensor is only reading current coming from/going into the factory battery, so the computers were getting a lower current draw than was actually taking place, therefore cutting down on the available charging capacity making the generator struggle.

My new plan is I will be installing a rebuilt Limo Generator 220A, upgrading the cable from generator to batteries to 2/0 Welding Cable, as well as from the grounds of the batteries and the block to the chassis. Possibly a slightly smaller generator pulley to boost output at lower RPMs. My plan is to find the biggest wire that will fit through the sensor and run that from the factory ground point to an isolated ground block, giving me a place to ground everything while the sensor is still able to pick up on all of the current.

I understand a diode isolator would be much better for my application, but my concern was the voltage drop. If you use an alternator with adjustable voltage you can off set that. I am not sure if the charging management system would compensate or detect that voltage drop?


My Questions are:
Will the factory Battery Current Sensor function properly with the 220A generator?
Will my plan of using the biggest wire I can fit through the sensor and connecting the ground point to an isolated ground block to allow the sensor to read all the current being used by the system still allow the sensor to function?
Will the computers cope with the data being received from the sensor, or would things need to be reprogramed for correct function?
If the factory sensor will not work for some reason, is it feasible to source a replacement that would have the needed specs and has the same output range as the factory?
Would the computers be able to cope with a slightly smaller generator pulley?
Would a the computer be able to compensate for the voltage drop caused by a Diode Isolator?


Any help or insight is greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
jguhlke

 

I see this is a very old post.

Did you get any of your answers?