I just wanted to post that I fixed my Service Stabilty/TCS lites on. After checking alot of wires and fuses, removing and cleaning up the ABS pump ground, it turned out to be the Speed Sensor on the transmission. Kinda a bitch to get at but after replacing and clearing codes the lites are off. Took it for a couple drives and turning off and on and they are not coming back on. Im happy I got one problem finally fixed

 

Good job

 

I spoke too soon..they are back on.....SMH

 

codes?

 

These are all my codes: TCS C1225 Hist C1243 Hist ACM B1350 Hist IPC B1552 Hist PZM 2471 Current B1971 Hist and the PCM p0758 which Im gonna have to take somewhere to get diagnosed
What I dont understand is why my TCS and ABS lites are on when the codes are "history"

 

Clear the abs tcs codes. C1225 left excessive wheel speed variation - different size wheel and or tire? burn outs? maybe something with sensor or jumper to sensor.

C1243 ABS pump stalled locked up pump motor or internal failure. Connection? Abs connector under water pump is not coolant friendly so make sure it's not corroded. Also harness runs close to drivers side cooling fan - make sure there has been no contact. Eldo always have codes so just focus on codes where there is a know problem.

 

I clear the codes all the time but the ABS and Trac lite always come back. When I got the car the brakes all around were rusted bad and shot. The owner told me the car was sitting for "awhile". The codes were on when I bought it also. I replaced ALL the brake rotors and pads and replaced both front and the Rt rear wheel bearing assys that came with the sensors.So the only wheel bearing/sensor is the Lt rear which "looks" ok. The car also cam with OEM Seville STS 16" wheels that were rusted and the tires junk. I found a great set of the OEM Wheels that belonged on the car with nice Michelins mounted. I would think that wouldnt be a problem since those Belong on the car. There has been no wheel spin on the car. No burn outs,...nothing. As far as the ABS..I have removed the "ground wire" and cleaned and removed any corrosion. It was a spotless clean metal connection when i put it back together. I havent checked the big main connectors as to tell you the truth Im having a hard time figuring how to get the dam things apart?? Why the hell do they make all these connectors so hard to figure out and you end up breaking the dam things...SMH I will look closer at them. I really try to do most everything myself before surrendering to the money robbers at a dealer but i gotta say this is the most challenging car I have ever worked on with all its electronics crap on it. Im on my second OEM Bose HU and the dealer cant get them to unlock. I replaced the shift solenoids and still the po758 code is present even though i did the job twice to check that I did it correctly. Im putting my bet that all my problems are in wiring somewhere and not bad parts...

 

You have the FSM. You should study the principles of operation of the different systems. That should increase your understanding of how things are supposed to work.
To check abs pump try to lock up brakes on a wet surface a rainy day in a abandoned parking lot. You should hear it come on. Not having a scanner to watch front wheel speed sensors is a problem just follow the trouble trees.