Above is pictured of my 1990 Seville, 4.5L PFI engine. The car is completely stock, other than upgrading to some aftermarket wheels and performance goodyear tires. Painted calipers for aesthetics, and replaced all incandescent bulbs with LEDs for 2 reasons - #1 - Interior lights up at night and you can see clearly, reverse backup LEDs are as bright as headlights when backing up, tail lights are very bright for added safety. I got tired of having to replace a bulb every six months. These cars are loaded with more bulbs than a christmas tree. Another reason I changed to LED was because the 6 1157 tail light bulbs and 1156 deck light draw a lot of wattage. Everytime you step on the brake, headlights would dim, blower fan speed would dip. Going LED eliminated this and reduced load on alternator. This alone significantly increased horsepower. I'd say by 10hp. Anyhow, I also have a 1990 Deville and a 1993 Deville and 1991 Seville, with 4.5 engines and 4.9 engines respectively. Any of us who have or have had these cars know all of the infamous sail-on condition. A TSB was issued to correct the problem. Two methods were indicated to properly adjust the TPS and ISC extension values to correct this. All required the factory base idle set screw to be adjusted to 450rpms, and then the tps adjusted to specified voltage. Well...through long winded experimentation, I developed the ideal TPS value calibrations and max ISC extension values to eliminate sail-on, improve performance, and pull the potential of the shift points and power enrichment and wake up these engines. I have the values listed below in both degrees (if you have a Seville and can read the TPS in degrees) as well as ohm meter readings taken directly from the TPS pin outs. I've included base idle speeds, plunger gap, ideal base ignition timing settings - all done without changing the factory set base idle speed. My Seville, currently, using the settings below...(14 degrees base ignition timing, denso O2 sensors, K&N air filter, drilled air intake box mod, NGK plugs, bosch wires, premium fuel, 2.1 degrees base idle TPS reading and ISC max extension value 15.8....I have video proof of this car making a 0-60 run time in just under 6 seconds with stale gas (car was put away for winter), without even hole shotting the throttle (I didn't want to light up my new rubber). Hand on the bible, with the settings I will list below, and addition of LEDs...before I changed tires, car would light tires up through 1-2 gear until hitting rev limiter. Car will continue to pull hard at 115mph. I have no idea of HP or torque figures or 1/4 mile times, but, other than what I just have said, I replaced tranny pan gasket and filter and put in fresh dose of Dex VI, I run Mobile 1 Synthetic 10w-30, stock exhaust no crazy mods...this car is retarded fast. I have raced my buddy's 300hp DTS, and it will take it until 70mph where the 4 valve engine starts to breath...It has taken a 327 Chevy, a 350 Chevelle SS. I know it isn't a race car, but, routine car with fuel filter changes, spark plug gap, distributor cap + rotor...etc, the basics for a 160,000 mile car...I never thought a heavy caddy like this could even hold its own. I was surprised that I got the car to do a 0-60 in 6 secs. With some minor tweaking, maybe advancing or retarding timing 1 degree, I don't think I could squeeze more out of it. Oh...I replaced the OEM injectors with 19.5# mustang injectors. The OEM injectors notoriously fail. Currently the 4.5 is faster than the 1991 4.9 seville, but, I believe the 1991 may have a slightly restricted Cat. I will be investigating that. FWIW, the aftermarket wheels and tires are same diameter as factory spec so vehicle speed was not skewed.

The ECMs of these engines operate within certain, fixated parameters. Although the ECM has an ability to “learn”, it only does so within finite limits of calibrated values to which have been predetermined. The primary cause for sail-on condition is not necessary a maladjusted TPS, just the parameters of other conditions not met, or the TPS/ISC not calibrated to those parameters. More likely, sail-on will occur when changes are made to the base idle. This not only includes adjustment to the base idle set screw itself, but factors that will effect base idle such as ignition timing and/or vacuum leaks. This is because the ECM commands a 600 RPM (+/- 50) idle. This parameter cannot be changed. The ISC plunger never, nor is it intended to, fully retracts while the engine is in normal operation. This means the base idle set screw must be set below 600 RPM, so the ECM may command the ISC motor to adjust to the 600 RPM parameter while the throttle arm is in contact with the plunger activating the closed throttle switch. You will find below a set of values in degree angles for which the ECM is calibrated to work with. Not all combinations may work, but that is based ultimately upon your base idle RPM. In fact, depending on your base idle, only one to two combinations will function flawlessly. However, while adjusting the TPS and/or ISC plunger, because they operate in tandem, a relationship between their values must be kept. With a TPS angle of 0*, the ISC maximum extension value is given as 13.4* (+/-.4*). That relationship must be kept regardless of what the TPS angle ultimately reads at base idle. I have found that with a 550 RPM base idle, a TPS adjustment of 2.1* at base idle and an ISC maximum extension of 15.8* works best. The TPS angle is “learned” by the ECM in conjunction with an idle learn. The ECM continuously learns the TPS angle each time the ignition is cycled, and as long as it is in within -2.9* - + 2.9*, will not fault. It will set the TPS angle as its zero, to the corresponding 600 RPM parameter. The ECM is only calibrated to certain parameters of coast down angles, and an improperly set TPS/ISC will result in sail-on. Coast down angles are based upon vehicle speed, a closed throttle switch, engine RPM, and TPS angle. If the base idle set screw is adjusted, it will raise or lower the TPS setting, thus, altering the ISC calibration. If the ISC is not in tandem with the TPS, sail-on or stall is indefinite. You will find that in order to keep the TPS and ISC in tandem, an approximate gap between the ISC plunger and throttle arm will be .030” - .060”. Therefore, a lower base idle, will command a lower TPS angle. A higher idle, generally achieved by advancing ignition timing, will necessitate a higher TPS angle.

[1] Both the 4.5L and 4.9L Cadillac v8 engines are a 9.5:1 compression ratio requiring at least 91 or greater premium octane fuel. The factory base timing is retarded for several reasons, primarily because neither engine contains a knock sensor, and with the risk of an operator fueling with regular gas, could result in severe engine damage. Many of us advance the ignition timing to 13-14* BTDC and run premium gas with gaining significant off idle response, increased torque at lower RPM, higher vacuum, better MPG…etc The ECM, however, is not calibrated nor fuel mapped for this advance, nor were these engines designed to be run with 10% ethanol. When advancing the base timing, you are “fooling” the computer, and must compensate for this by making further adjustments.


If TPS base angle adjustment is lowered (clockwise turning if standing in front of hood), sail away will occur and ISC plunger will be slow to retract. If TPS base angle adjustment is raised (counterclockwise or pushing down on the connector), sail away will be minimized and ISC plunger will retract quicker. Power enrichment and timing will occur faster, however, ECM CODE E085 – Throttle Body Service Required or other codes and stalling will occur if TPS angle is 3* or greater at base idle. [Code E055 will set if “learned” TPS is less than -2.9* or greater than 3*] The TPS and ISC plunger adjustments are critical and related, as they operate in tandem. When set correct, the throttle arm should rest on the base idle set screw with ISC plunger retracted, with an approximate gap between the throttle arm and plunger of .030” to .060”. Improper gap or TPS/ISC correlations improperly set may set code E030 – ISC rpm out of range.[1]

[1] A precise measurement of the gap between the idle speed plunger to the throttle arm is relative ONLY if comparing two throttle bodies of similarity, assuming both throttle bodies’ minimum idle speed screws have not been adjusted from their factory settings. Since the measurement is taken while the throttle arm is resting on the minimum idle screw, movement of said set screw will adversely affect the measurement of the gap. A measurement of .030”-.060” is a general range of measurement to get the ISC within tolerances. From that point it is necessary to tweak the ISC max extension to the angle values given above. A gap is absolutely necessary. The ISC plunger also doubles as a throttle switch. Pressure from the throttle arm against the plunger commands either an open throttle, or closed throttle. Because of this switch, I recommend (and the above values are adjusted to) a smaller gap for positive engagement of the throttle switch to negate a closed throttle, and allow the ECM to command the proper coast down angle. Too large a gap and a weakened or weak throttle return spring may not exert enough force to send a closed throttle position. A large gap will also put the ISC max extension value out of range, and inadequate cold weather cold-start idle will be exhibited. There is, however, a +/-.4* variance, or leeway, in where exactly the plunger may be set, as the ECM will “learn” its corresponding values. It must, however, be somewhat within this range, and this range is in fact itself narrow.


Because the TPS base angle adjustment is “learned” each time the ignition is turned off, the ECM records this as its base setting, or 0*.[1] Carbon deposits will eventually increase the angle, the maximum TPS base angle that can be used is 2.9* or codes will be set. I would not exceed 2.5* to leave a margin of value for the ECM to compensate for deposit build up.
Using the midpoint adjustments per the FSM of TPS 0* and max ISC ext. 13.4*, I have developed a scale to keep both the TPS and plunger adjustments in tandem.
TPS ISC (+/- .4*)
-1.7* 11.5*
-1.3* 11.9*
-0.9* 12.3*
-0.5* 12.7*
-0.2* 13.0*
(0* 13.4*) – There is no 0.0*value, so this is an average
0.2* 13.8*
0.5* 14.2*
0.9* 14.6*
1.3* 15.0* Sail Away noticeable, and increases as TPS angle is lowered.
1.7* 15.4* - Minimal Coast Down Sail Away
(2.1* 15.8*) Ideal combination
(2.5* 15.8*) (Experimenting this setting on 1991 Cadillac Seville 4.9L. The higher the TPS angle under 3* should result in power enrichment and ECM timing advance off idle sooner, and produce more power. The resulting effect of this was overly rich idle, and a continuous coasting at 30mph. Sail-on was minimal. Perhaps the ISC should have been extended to 16.2*, but coasting most likely contributed to the engine being given more fuel. The TPS on the 1991 Seville is also temperamental in the 1.7*-2.9* range.)
Readjusted TPS to (2.1* 15.4*) Noted no significant improvement. Coast down angle still high.
Readjusted TPS to (2.1* 15.8*) Noted significant improvement. No coast down sail-on. Only noticed a “hunting” for the VCC engagement in the 45-65 mph range. But this seemed to be more of an effect of engine load rather than throttle angle.
Before any of the below adjustments are made, throttle plates must be cleaned and free of any carbon deposits!!!
1.) Jump A and B terminals of the ALDL connector to enter “set ignition timing mode”. Advance timing to 13 or 14* BTDC. [2] (Double check for any vacuum leaks prior to this. In timing mode, ECM will fixate timing and not advance it in regards to engine RPM, but timing adjustment must be made BELOW 800 rpms.)

[1] Other references in the FSM state the TPS base idle angle must be within -1* to +1*. Regardless of where the TPS is set, the ECM will “learn” it’s value as 0, each time the ignition is cycled on/off, providing the TPS is not grossly out of range. A continuous learning by the ECM provides provision for the TPS angle to change overtime as carbon deposits build on the throttle plates. The ECM will always command an idle of 600 RPM, +/- 50.

[2] 13-14* initial ignition timing lowers the torque curve and gives off idle response and torque almost in excesses of what normal driving conditions necessitate. Although with premium gas, I have not experienced any pinging…but have noticed on very hot days, when restarting a hot engine as the coolant within the block gets super heated, excessive load on the starter may be experienced. The gain of increased off idle torque may or may not cause erratic idle issues, and running close to 14* with modern gasoline’s, any off brand or lower quality gas will detrimentally effect idle and performance all around. 93 Shell V-Power may run superb, but 93 Exxon gas may cause hiccups. Midgrade gasoline in ambient temperatures above 70* will give significant performance declines including surging and erratic idles, power loss, etc. In any regard, I have found running at 14* although increases low end response dramatically, causes a significant loss in top end power. At 14*, 1991 car struggled severely to accelerate at WOT from 65-80mph. When timing was reduced to 12*, car pulled much harder in this top end range. Currently the 4.5L 1990 car running at ~9* initial timing pulls harder in top end, with no “flat” spots in any RPM range. Hot advance dramatically lowers the torque curve to the point where it is placed so close to off idle, it is pointless for anything other than burning tires and bogging down into a realm of no torque after shifting into 2nd, when RPMs are up, and no longer sitting on the max torque curve. I estimate the ideal initial timing to be ~11-12*. 15* would probably be considered “ping timing”, and the old rule would be to back down 2* from there…which would give 13* to be ideal. However, master tuners have discovered highest performance gains are actually slightly below the 2* decrease from ping timing.


1.) Exit timing mode. Use either ECM Override E.S.3 or manually retract (and disconnect) ISC plunger and verify base engine RPM. Use ECM data parameter or tachometer to set or verify base engine RPM is at 500-550 RPM while resting on the base idle set screw. FSM states if adjustment is to be made, adjust to 525rpm.
2.) Use ECM data ED01 ‘TPS’ while throttle arm is resting on base idle screw. Throttle angle should be adjusted to +2.1*.
3.) Use ECM data and override functions to adjust ISC max extension to proper value.
4.) Verify that the min and max adjustments hold true while cycling through the override functions.
5.) Disconnect battery and perform TPS ‘Learn’. (See 6E-C2-18)
6.) Perform an ‘Idle Learn’ procedure. (See 6E-C2-18)

[IMG]file:///C:\Users\GREGOR~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\ 01\clip_image002.jpg[/IMG]
Multimeter readings taken from 1991 Cadillac Seville 4.9L: (Cold Engine)
(From connector) 5 volt supply registered 5.07 volts DC to ground, 5.01 volts from connector harness ground.
(From connector) 5 volt feed to connector ground registered 770 mA current
(From connector) Continuity to ground (ignition off) Continuity to ground with ignition on .051-.055) Ground is supplied by the BCM.
(At TPS) With throttle angle at 2.5*, R value registered ~1900 ohms. (Between Ground and R)
(At TPS) ISC max extension of 15.8* registered 2697 ohms
(At TPS) Wide open throttle produced 6.64k ohms
ECM data displayed max throttle angle of 80.2 – 80.6
Base Timing:~14*
Base idle:525-550 rpm
Pass Key Chip – 7.50k omhs



Multimeter readings taken from 1991 Cadillac Seville 4.9L: (Hot Engine)
Battery Voltage: 12v (on charger, interior lights illuminated)
Adjusted TPS to 2.1*. TPS measured 1810 ohms.
Max ISC extension set to 15.4*. Measured 2623 ohms.
Full throttle measured 79.5* throttle angle and 6.49K ohms.

(Experiment with TPS 2.5* with ISC max extension at 16.2*)

NOTE: A service bulletin was issued to correct sail-on conditions.[1] It, however, did not specify correcting the TPS by angle but gave feedback reference voltages.
We can use the formula of a voltage divider to figure this out, if adjusting TPS by back-probing signal wire.
Vout= Z2 / (Z1 + Z2) * Vin
With known output voltages, we can calculate the setting of the TPS by correcting its ohm output at base idle. The bulletin stated to first set initial base timing. Adjust base idle to 450rpm. TPS output voltage to .55v at base idle and 1.17v at max ISC extension. As long as the max ISC extension is within the 1.15v – 1.20v range, it is acceptable. I also have noted that a .45v - .55v range is acceptable, but strive for .5v at 525 rpm. Since advancing the timing may generally raise base engine RPM, we essentially increase these output voltages and by lowering the idle set screw, lower the output voltage.
Let’s check the signal voltages for the TPS setting of 2.1* and max ISC extension of 15.4*. We know that voltage input is 5.01v. At full throttle, the signal output should be given a 5v reference.
To find the value of Z1 we use Ohm’s law V / I = Z1 , or 5.0v / .77amp = 6.49k ohms. This is the same reading taken from the millimeter at the TPS when the throttle was opened manually to full.
Voltage output = Pot / (variable + Pot) x 5
2.1* TPS à 1810 / (6490 + 1810) x 5 à 1.0v (high)
15.4* TPS à 2623 / (6490 + 2623) x 5 à 1.4v (high)
15.8*TPS à 2697 / (6490 + 2697) x 5 à 1.4v (high)

Are the TPS min and max values proportional to the FSB? .55 / 1.2 = x / 1.4 would yield .64v min TPS signal reference. The values are clearly not linear…however, if the FSB is giving a .55v reference for base idle of 450 RPM, and we are running 550 RPM base idle, I can conceivable concur that increasing the signal voltage to approximately 1.0v for the increased in throttle angle for the +100 RPM is necessary for compensation of not lowing the base idle. And as such, the voltage of the max ISC extension would also have to be increased slightly. The TPS voltage is increased ~+.5 volt, therefore, although there is some uncertainly that the scale is linear, the max ISC extension signal voltage had been increased by ~+.2 volts. Although this combination works, I have not increased the max ISC extension voltage to a full +.5v. This would simply be done so by decreasing the gap between the throttle arm and fully extended ISC plunger. Below I list the gaps I have measured. The cars seemingly run much better with a smaller gap. It is possible that lowering the gap to say, .020”, may work even better.

[1] The FSB was issued based upon the assumption that base timing was set at 10* BTDC, and also required the base idle to be lowered to 450 RPM from the FSM, which states 550 RPM. Either way, it requires the base idle to be lowered. By lowering the base idle set screw, you also increase the angle of the TPS at the commanded 600 RPM by the ECM. The bulletin only provided voltages, not angles, of how to readjust the TPS. The entire basis of this writing is to find the correct value for the TPS, in angles, rather than voltages, to cure sail on conditions, and to do so without altering the base idle set screw.




Refer to FSM 6E-C2-18 for TPS learn and Idle learn after making these adjustments. Without proper Idle learn procedure, initial idle offset is fixed to a calibrated value and may result in coast down sail-on or engine stall!!!

Angle Values in degrees of TPS in increments -/+
-0.5
-0.2
(There is no 0.0)
0.2
0.5
0.9
1.3
1.7
2.1
2.5
2.9
3.3
3.7
4.1
4.5
4.8
5.2
5.6
6.0
6.4
6.8
7.2
7.6
8.0
8.4
8.8
9.1
9.5
9.9
10.3
10.7
11.1
11.5
11.9
12.3
12.7
13.0
13.4
13.8
14.2
14.6
15.0
15.4
15.8
16.2

 

CURRENT SETTINGS:
1990 Seville 4.5L
Base timing: 9*-10* BTDC (cold) 10*-11* (hot) – Experiment with 12-13*
TPS/ISC – 1.7* 15.4* max extension - Adjust to 2.1* / 15.8*
Throttle Arm to Plunger Gap at min. idle: .043” (Needs verification)
Engine Idle (Op. Temp in PARK) – 600 RPM +/- 25
TPS (Op. Temp in PARK) 2.5*/2.9*
14 C/C
108 R B/L
108 L B/L
4.7-5.0MS INJs
18* Avg. Spark Advance (15*-19*)
102 KBARO
44-46 KPA MAP

1991 Seville 4.9L
Base timing: 12* BTDC (Op. Temp.) - RECHECK
TPS/ISC – 2.1* / 15.8* max extension
Throttle Arm to Plunger Gap at min. idle: .047” - RECHECK
Engine Idle (Op. Temp in PARK) – 625RPM +/- 25 RPM
Engine Idle (Op. Temp in Gear) – 575RPM - 600RPM
TPS (Op. Temp in PARK) 2.9* -RECHECK
TPS Override 2.1* (Base Idle) – 475RPM-525RPM (AVE. 500RPM)
22 C/C
R /BL = 115
L B/L = 119
3.8 MS INJs
25* Avg. Spark Advance (22*-28*)
102 KBARO
36-38 KPA MAP

9/21/13 readings:
HC - 13ppm
CO - .06%
NOx – 100ppm
HP – 16.2
RPM – 1649
ET – 352.5

3/16/2013 readings:
HC – 25ppm
CO - .00%
NOx – 211ppm
HP 16.2
RPM – 2018
ET – 358.5

 

It DID work! I have a 1992 Allante and have worked on and off on this problem for over a year, ever since I had to pull off the upper intake to replace my blower motor. It was just never the same after that. I have a factory service manual and followed it to a "T" but still always had a sail-on condition. It was tolerable, but not right. and I knew I was burning my brakes up needlessly. Thank you so much for this very good, detailed, and easy to understand post. Now, do I really advance my timing several degrees and go high performance...?

 

The timing should be set to the specified 10 degrees. It is possible to advance timing but the 4'1-4.9 tend to spark knock. Provided you are using premium you could advance timing 2 degrees at a time until you hear spark knock then back it off 2 degrees. With FSM and sail on there were TSBs revising procedure. If the previous post works for you, that all that matters

 

The procedure for Sail On in this post did seem to help, but I am interested in the specific instructions in the TSB. These always seem to be unavailable to me. Is there a place I can see all TSBs for cars without having to buy a subscription?

As far as performance tuning, my car runs good and I am a little hesitant to move timing settings around unnecessarily.

 

Go by dealer and request TSB 93-44, they should print off for you. If you have questions afterward repost. One thing I did notice was it was better to have TPS on the + side than -. It seemed if TPS was - there was a higher chance of sail on.

 

The Factory Service calibration should be be disregarded or avoided. A service bulletin was issued years later to correct the common "sail on" issues. The bulletin was issued after the 1993 T-93-44. It states to set the minimum air idle screw to 400-450rpms. TPS at .55volts, and ISC motor at full extension to 1.15 - 1.2volts.

I spent a lot of time developing my above information, and I began prior to having knowledge of such bulletin. I also didn't have the tool to adjust the idle air screw, which, I eventually made my own. TO UPDATE - The FIRST thing you need to do before anything is to set your ignition timing. If any adjustments are made prior, you can throw it out the window. Your timing will change your idle vacuum and idle speed among other things. Through experimentation, I have found, 14* at hot idle is BEST. 10*, per factory specs, is conservative. These engines don't have a knock sensor. You can run 10* with regular with no issues. 14* is the MAX advance you can run in the 4.9s, in hot weather, with premium. I strongly recommend premium gas when running 14* in the 4.5 or 4.9. The 4.5, being slightly smaller displacement, may give some leeway as smaller engines generally can take more advance. I have had no pinging issues even at 16* in hot weather. However, 16* promotes a more rough idle...and no more gains in low-end power/torque or 14. Below 14*, minimally I would run 12.....the factory 10* makes that motor run like a wimp. Going from 10* base timing to 14*, you will note that if you punch the car from a stop, 10* will make it dog, while 14* will smoke tires. Yes, it makes that much difference. In temperatures 70 degrees or below, midgrade would work fine and regular in the winter but I run premium all the time for other reasons I won't get into here now. The extra $4 per tank of premium pays for itself in terms of improving gas mileage anyhow. Running regular in the hot summer with 14* timing won't cause excessive pinging unless under a lot of load, but it most likely will cause hard starts/kickback.

That being said, I recently starting using my A/C...and never performed the idle learn with the A/C as it was too cold outside for the compressor to engage. The PCM recalibrated the idle or something...and things went askew. My Base idle (ISC plunger fully retracted) was up to 800 rpms. I set timing to 14 (it had moved to 16)....and lowered idle to 475-525ish hot idle. My TPS was set to 2.1* base, and 15.8* max extension....lowing my base idle screw naturally of course changed these parameters. Displays reads .9* and 15.4....I need to readjust them to 2.1* and 15.8*. Granted, no sail on is occurring currently, but I do notice off idle throttle feeling a tad sluggish - this is because by raising the TPS to 2.1* at base idle, advance and power enrichment will go in sooner.

Remember when you advance your base timing, you can't "re-curve" the mapping of the computer. You are just skewing the entire curve in earlier. This will increase your low end torque and throttle response significantly. While coasting on the highway, and computer throws in full advance for full economy...say display reads 50 degrees.....you are infact adding an extra 4 to that. Gas mileage will improve. Secondly...these engines were tuned for real gas. Not this ethanol stuff. It takes more ethanol blended gas to equal the same volume measurement of gasoline for the same BTU. So feed it more fuel!!!

Lastly, after you make any changes to your TPS (and always readjust ISC plunger to my listed calibrations), disconnect battery and perform an idle relearn procedure. If your car is set at TPS value "X"...and you change it, the cycling of the key will allow the PCM to relearn the closed throttle position of the TPS (done so to compensate for carbon deposits)...but the base idle the computer wants to idle the car (600 or 650rpms w/ A/C on) is a fixed value, and without a batt disconnect will try to idle the car to this with the new TPS value and things will go a bit crazy.

Thank you for saying thanks. I knew there had to be at least one person out there with one of these old cars who had the same issue and was loosing their hair over it. It's a real PITA and nightmare. You can't guess or "play" with the settings. You'll never get it right. Only perhaps close. That TPS will move drastically with just a hair movement. The cars with the on board displays to read TPS angle are a lot easier than the Devilles OR by doing it via voltage.

After making adjustments always go into the display ECM override 003 and verify min and max extension of the ISC...and press OFF and go into ECM data...verify TPS angle. They have a tendency to go off a degree by themselves. Very sensitive.

Have fun. Avoiding this issue will render you a headache and eventually since the car doesn't idle down until below 5mph, if it doesn't take you for a hell ride on it's own, you're burning up brakes. Take the FSM procedure and throw it away.