Replace engine with salvage rebuilt overhaul new? oil pressure & compression test ?

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Old 10-02-2009, 11:27 AM
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Default Replace engine with salvage rebuilt overhaul new? oil pressure & compression test ?

these comments are from another site in the web.
For the most part, these echo what I would have said, but none of the comments are mine.

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Replace engine with salvage, rebuilt, overhaul, or new?
Perform oil pressure & compression test ?
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I put a rebuilt motor in three years ago along with many other parts. Just blew 2 cylinders. I want to keep the car. Should I get a junkyard motor, another rebuilt, or one of those brand new after market motors from ebay?

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before you start pulling the motor, take time and mark where the vacuum lines, wiring and other connections are. Take some pics of the engine bay while everything is still connected. Then as your pulling wires and lines, get some masking tape and a couple of black sharpies and start marking.

Mark everything and make multiple copies of the pics (mark them as well) if you have to; it'll save you later on.

When your pulling bolts, place them in plastic bags and mark the bags as well. I know these things sound basic but you'd be surprised how many people forget these steps, especially if it's their first engine pull. And I assume you have a Chilton's or other manual for the removal and that you've read it a few times.

And don't forget to support that tranny; if you don't whoa boy!! A suggestion, don't let that step uncle of yours handle that or any other job

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Well a "rebuild" is only as good as the rebuilder. Some "rebuilds" are merely "overhauls" (a big difference).

Rebuild should mean "all parts renewed or machined back to factory spec" (e.g., rebore cylinders with oversize pistons, re-machine crank with oversize bearings).

Overhaul means "bad parts replaced, serviceable parts left alone". This usually means new rings on old pistons, maybe new bearing shells on an old crank, and a valve job and a paint job.

Unless the rest of the car is really pristine, I'd go for a junkyard motor that's been tested, bagged and warrantied.

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But only a tested engine, with oil pressure and compression test #'s written on a tag.

Or if it's some bargain-basement place, you have GOT to hear it run and be able to test it yourself, at least the compression.

Buying and R&R engines is just too much labor for rolling dice.

Do it right, save money, save grief!

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Here is a sample ...







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Last edited by stomper; 10-02-2009 at 11:32 AM.
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