98 sls still running little warm; block repair with nanotechnology in a bottle
 

My engine is still running warmer than it use too. I know i have a leak into one of my cylinders, but the gm pellets are working for now. The temp doesn't rise until the thermostat opens. Can this be from the head gasket leaking. I was going to try replacing my thermostat AGAIN and eliminate that, if not i was thinking to change the water pumpnext (not sure when or if its been changed before). I think I can live with the warmer temp but trying to do everything possible to run normal due to leak in head gasket. After i finish this I was going to install the Dexcool and try a bottle of that head gasket and block repair by nanotechnology and see if it works better than the gm pellets. Any help please advise

remind me, does your car have a radiator cap?


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No radiator cap it has an overfill tank with a pressurized cap on it. Its new also

Im pretty sure i finally found my heat problem. The gm pellets are restricting the water flow at the thermostat. Thats why it would heat up a little then drop back down and so on. Nothing was ever consistent. I knew when the temp guage inside the car was above normal that I could use a hand held infared thermometer and see the temp was about 225 on engine side of thermostat and 170 on the other. Last night I put a brand new thermostat in and it did the same thing, so I removed cover plate on watetr pump and it was good. I flushed everything out put just water back in and it worked fine. So going to get some dexcool today and use the bottle of head and gasket repair mfg by K&W and see if it works, its a liquid so it shouldnt block the thermostat. what a journey

Assuming that is a correct diagnosis, read on ...

The old "if a little is good, then more should be even better" does not work with the coolant supplement / tabs.

If previous owners have been adding more of the stuff without removing some the old stuff in the system, of course, things will clog.

If the thermostat is clogging with excessive supplement, for sure, there is too much in there. If that is the case, most likely your car also has a clogging heater core and you should remove the hoses to it and back flush it.



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Well I'm sure you techs can probably relate to this. I thought i had my overheating problem figured out, but not till now. Sure you saw this one coming :). Of course the head gasket repair in a can stopped the water from entering into my cylinder but it didn't stop the pressure from building up in my radiator. I took my car to radiator shop yesterday thinking that all the tablets and junk i put in it gummed it up. My upper radiator hose was extremely hot and the bottom was cold. The radiator tech told me after I decided to put a new radiator in that I had a blown head. i asked how he knew and he said he could smell it out the exhaust and that the pressure from blown head ripped open the radiator inside causing it not to cool. With new radiator it only heated up one line pass normal and dropped back down to normal just like it did wayyyyyyyyy back when all this started. So I'm not going to drive anymore. I found a motor here in Jackson Ms. with 94000 miles for $1300 and a local junkyard will install for $700, hard to beat huh. Any pointers from here. Probably a silly ? but how much easier is it to change bad motor mounts between swapping motors opposed to after installed. thanks

98 sls still running little warm block repair with nanotechnology in a bottle
 

It was pretty good for me. Not only did it get me my first GP top 8 but it proved to me that I need to continue to put my principles before passion. Had I not given in and decided to go with what I was touting as the "best deck" in the format, I would have been running G/B at the gp and undoubtedly a day 1 finish at best.

98 sls engine
 

Well I'm finally going to put another engine in my sls. Want some recommendations on anything I should do to new used motor (94000 miles) if anything. Should I change oil pan gasket or etc to avoid upcoming oil leak ? Any other modifications. Thanks

do a compression test before you pay for it or before you install it.


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What is good compression on this motor.

you are basically testing head gasket integrity, so you want all cylinders testing pretty close ! Bad gasket will show in a few cylinders testing low.

the engine itself has another 300,000+ miles left ont it, IF and IF the head gasket is in good shape by way of proper maintenance of the cooling system.





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Thanks for info. Should I make modifications to prevent oil leak in future. Also any idea how heavy motor is when out of vehicle with no trans. Thanks

my .02 cents
 

From my experience this summer of pulling out the engine in my 98 DeVille and then going thru the head bolt insert routine and rebuild on the bottom end, had the heads checked and were still good, also I had to purchase a few tools required to work on this engine. A couple of things came to mind when you said a "local junkyard" will do the install, now I don't know how good the yards around your area are at repair, but around where I live I wouldn't let 90% of the yard workers install an air freshener much less an engine. Like I mentioned earlier I had done this and I would have to say this engine pull/ repair/ replace was the most complicated and tedious engine jobs I've ever done, and I have done hundreds through the years.
I take it you will be pulling the engine out thru the top because you had asked how much it weighs without the trans attached, well this is possible because I had went this route but PATIENCE will be required (man is it a tight fit). While the engine is out check the metal cooling lines that run along the firewall side, mine were heavily rusted and this is an easy replacement at this time. Just a few of my fond memories of this particular job.