quote:

by Steatlh

a very interesting collection of ideas gathered from various sources and from people that had emissions challenged vehicles but found ways to pass the test ...
 
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emissions components which may be inspected by officials for proper operation:  
 
EGR Valve, Air Pump, Charcoal Canister, EVAP System, Smog Pump, Oxygen Sensor, Intake Manifold, Exhaust Manifold, Fuel Pump, Turbo, Supercharger, Header, Camshaft, Fuel Filter, Air Filer, Oil Filter, Carburetor, Fuel Injector, Preheat Tube, Air Injection, Check Valve, Muffler, Solenoid, Fuel Mixture Solenoid, Catalytic Converter, CAT, Heat Riser, OBD II System, On Board Diagnostics Computer and Vacuum Lines.  
 
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GUMOUT, Emissions Reducer, 12 oz bottle
 
"at the pump pour the bottle then fill tank .. in this initila tank, emissions may increase as Gumout works to remove deposits and expel via the exhaust .. ran until tank is near empty .. refill tank .. do not perform emissions test until 2nd or third tank where the emissions benefits will show ....."
 
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make sure your gas tank is only 1/4 to 1/2 full and put 1/2 the bottle of methyl hydrate (fondue fuel) in the tank

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Pour pure (90%+) isopropyl alcohol into your fuel tank, it will help to clean up your exhaust emmissions and get your car through the smog tests that most states currently use. Use two 16oz bottles for ten gallons of premium fuel.
 
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pour two litres of methyl hydrate into 1/2 tank of fuel
 
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pour two quarts of pure denatured alcohol into 1/4 tank of fuel
 
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disconnect the harness from one injector. The engine will only run on 7 cylinders, but it will pump one cylinder worth of air into the exhaust on every cycle, which serves to dilute the mixture from the other cylinders.
 
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Change oil  and leave it a quart low. New oil seals better and low level minimizes the chance of splash onto the cylinder walls. Burnt oil is another source of HC.
 
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clean the engine.  Burnt oil is another source of HC.
 
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Change the engine oil just before you go to test. Fresh 20/50 seals better than any oil with 50 or more miles on it. The idea is to reduce hydrocarbons (HC),  
 
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leave the tank half full or less. The evap system can be overloaded with a full tank, increasing HC.
 
 
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Bring it in real hot from a highway run. The O2 and cat work best when hot and the throttle body is heated by engine coolant, pre-heating intake air.
 
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Drive it on the freeway for about 10 miles before you go to the test in order to be sure that the engine is at full operating temperature
 
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put in the highest octane gas you can find, change the oil, and retard the timing slightly (3 deg).
 
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Just before the smog test fill up with good winter "Arizona" gas. i.e. unoxgenated gas with enough volatility to easily ignite. ("Winter Gas" is more volatile then "Summer Gas".)  
 
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Retard the ignition timing about 3 degrees to help reduce the NOX emissions.  
 
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take out air filter
 
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Use a low-restriction air cleaner set. Hellings has one about 1/2" thick with metal wire for a filtering medium. It will only filter out large rocks, but it flows very freely.
 
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Run the fuel tank down as far as possible and refill it just before the test. Fuel has a ‘half-life' and it does not burn as well if it has been in the tank for 90 days or more
 
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Put in a new set of spark plugs, gapped.
Convert from carbon core ignition wires to the solid core (metal) type.
 
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Capped off PCV connection to manifold
 
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make sure the tires are inflated to MAX  for the dyno test.
 
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fuel cap sealing correctly
 
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blowby/crankcase fumes being re-ingested through the air cleaner and throwing the tailpipe readings way off. reroute the crankcase fumes out of the compartment via a "road draft tube"
 
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California now requires all vehicles 1996 and up, to communicate directly with the smog machine during the smog test. This is achieved via your vehicle's OBDII Data Link Connecter. As part of the smog inspection process, the smog technician will connect a Data Cable from the smog machine to your vehicle's OBDII Data Link Plug. This cable will deliver important "Check Engine" codes and "Readiness Flags" from the engine's computer system to the state's smog machine. Emissions related failure codes will cause your vehicle to fail the smog inspection. The failure codes will be printed on the Vehicle Inspection Report (VIR) which will be given to you by the smog station. 

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IF your CA car is required to go to a TEST-ONLY Station, and it fails, and your car qualifies, you must pay for the 1st $100 of diag and repairs with the State paying the next $500.  To qualify, the car has to be yours, not in the process of being sold, a CA car, and it should be unmodified.
 
If you are low income, then you only have to pay the 1st $20.
 
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http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/ftp/pdfforms/CAP_app.pdf
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quote:

by Stealth

Nov 2006

A COMPARISON  of TWO SMOG tests,
same vehicle, two years apart, all changes
listed below, prep above.

i wish i could provide emissions data for the Allanté, but that is not possible as i have not done a SMOG with the PREP on it .. and seems i will be doing some emissions repairs before the SMOG test comes up .. .. so, at this time i am providing what data i have for my 4x4 .. it tested yesterday for CA SMOG  and the test was preceded by SMOG PREP as specified in some of my posts above ...
 
again, the following data is for a my '87 4x4, with AT tires and extensive street use, moderate OFF-road use, and lots significant highway towing  usage (7,000 lb tandem trailer) ...
 
vehicle is 100% stock, all hoses in 100% good condition, no grime, no oil leaks, it runs as it should .. ..... it is a real OFF-ROAD 4x4 which  i got it with 60k miles and added another 88,000 miles  ...
 
there have been no repairs, or new tires, or spark-plugs or wires or tuneups or anything since the last SMOG below .. compare the dyno emission data, look at the NO and HC,  and  then YOU DECIDE ...
 
car is two years older, a few more miles on it, and it tested BETTER and cleaner than two years ago ...
 
i used the same PREP on the Stang beast with positive results .. but i dont have prior data on that one to compare ...
 
hope this info helps someone ...
 

 
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144,749 miles, 11/01/05 SMOG - pass
 
at 15mpg;  
CO2 12.4%; O2 3.2%; HC 24 ppm; CO 0.0; NO 97 ppm
 
at 25mpg;  
CO2 12.4%; O2 3.3%; HC 15 ppm; CO 0.0; NO 127 ppm
 
it did get SMOG prep'd:  
 - fresh 20/50 oil + 1 pint of STP, cranckcase filled to 1 qt LOW - added the last quart AFTER the SMOG test  
 - fuel tank at less than 1/4 (5 gal), tank holds 30 gal, added 1 gal denatured alchool an hr before the test
 - tires inflated to 45 psi, removed air filter, cleaned engine
(tire side wall max allows for 50 psi)
 - disconnected the harness off the A/C compressor
 - drove vehicle 5 miles and let it idle until it's turn to test came up.
 - weather at 85F
 
SMOG guy stated that she  runs cleaner than most cars"  
 
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then, about 15,000 miles ago, NO SMOG PREP:
 
129,387 miles; 11/01/03 SMOG - pass
 
15mpg;  
CO2 14.1%; O2 0.8%; HC 100 ppm; CO 0.29; NO 387 ppm
 
25mpg;  
CO2 14.3%; O2 0.6%; HC 59 ppm; CO 0.09; NO 135 ppm
 
SMOG prep: none
(fuel tank at 3/4, oil about 2,000 miles old, air filter in place, no additive to fuel )
 - drove 15 miles, idle until test came up.


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