I have a 98 Deville with the p0741 code TCC stuck off. The clutch does not engage. I check the resistance of the TCC solenoid and measured 9.9 ohms. I plan on first replacing the TCC solenoid.

I have found a TSB number 040730034 for a 99 Cad. and am wondering if there is anything relevant in that. Does anybody have a copy of the TSB that can relay the gist.

I have also heard that the viscous clutch can "crack" and rebuilders are replacing the torque converter(when failed) with one that has a non-viscous or traditional clutch. Does anybody have any knowledge of this? At first I thought that getting rid of the viscous clutch would be a downgrade as the engine torque pulses would no longer be damped, but if there is a durability issue then the "downgrade" would be desirable. If the TCC solenoid doesn't fix the issue, then my next step would be to replace the converter.

 

Dealer normally will give you a copy of tsb related to your car. You will need to give it to the correctly : 03-07-30-034. Bulletin covers seal leakage as the cause and lists parts that maybe needed to correct. Changing torque converter to type not designed for transmission doesn't make any sense at all. Generally transmission repairs are best done by someone with experience in that area. If you are a tech at a shop, see if you can find a trans tech who maybe to take a look at car and advise you. Also make sure tcc brake switch is adjusted correctly because it can can P0741 if mis-adjusted.

 

I have the same in my 1998 Sts . Code P0741. They say my TCC Selinoid was ok but the TCC is stuck open. They say (a GM Dealer ) that I need a new Transmission to the tune of $6,800.
What does TCC actually stand for and is the converter expensive to replace by a certified Transmission Shop .
Thanks very Much
Siver 1 calgary AB Canada

 

TCC - Torque Converter Clutch. Price seems too high, TSB in original post states it should be a repairable concern, request copy from your dealer. Get or post parts and labor breakdown. Hopefully car is still drivable,trans not apart, get several estimates from reputable repair shops including GM dealers, and be willing to pay diag fee. Resist teardown with no est of expected cost of repair, it may change after disassembly, with just a P0741 it should change very much. There are shops where they will tear it apart then knock you in the head concerning cost to repair car, because your stuck and unlikely to tow car out of shop in pieces.

 

I followed the diagnostic procedures and have determined the issue is not external/electrical. I have been pricing out torque converters and rebuild kits. I found an AC Delco p/n 24231065 Automatic Transmission Overhall Kit for $400 which is competitive with the aftermarket kits. Does anybody know what this kit contains, i.e. does it contain the friction and steel plates?

 

I found the AC Delco p/n 24231065 Automatic Transmission Overhall Kit on Amazon for $271.00. According to GM Service Research(I don't know it they are still called that) the kit contains gaskets, seals, plates for rebuilding transmission i.e. a Master rebuild kit. That is a really good price as the cheapest aftermarket equivalent I could find was about $480.00 which is hard to swallow as I have seen 4T60E kits for under $200.00. I also found some rebuilders that sell rebuilt torque converters with recharged viscous clutches--cost $210.00 with shipping both ways(for core return).

I know slowroll said that it doesn't make sense to replace the converter with a one with a nonviscous clutch, and I agree, but a lot of shops are doing just that. For example, they are installing rebuilds called GM4 which are a traditional nonviscous torque converter, a GM6A which uses a sonnex conversion plate to allow them to use a clutch with heavy duty torsional springs, and worst of all, a cheap rebuild where the viscous clutch is simply pinned so that when the clutch applies there is no torsional damping at all(no springs). You have to be careful when you have your transmission rebuilt!

I am rebuilding the trans myself and I will let you know how things went when I am done.

 

if your tcc is not engaging and you know its not electrical then why not just get a new torque converter? why rebuild the transmission? maybe im missing something here but sounds to me you just take the tranny out(and leave it in one peice) and slide the converter out. you said its a deeville so thats FWD so itll be a little more tricky than RWD but i still dont see the point of a entire rebuild. oh and i had a viscous type torque converter put on my 89 fleetwood with the engine rebuild but that was only because the manufacture one was screwing up pretty bad, but the tranny never did seem to be right. dont know if it was the viscous converter's fault or not.

 

I completed the rebuild. The main problem was, as described in the TSB, the outer case cover to drive sprocket metal clad seal had failed. The lip was completely separated from the rest of the seal. A main contributer to the failure was wear on the drive sprocket support where the inner race of the drive sprocket support bearing had spun. I replaced the drive sprocket support with a new part and glued the inner race of the drive and driven sprocket bearings to their supports with blue loctite to prevent it from happening again.

There was clutch material from the torque converter viscous apply clutch throughout the system due to low apply pressure due to the bad seal. You have to disassembly everything to clean up, so you might as well rebuild the whole transmission.

I did find other things wrong with the transmission: the low-reverse band was defective resulting in the clutch material at the end of the band where the servo applies being thin and breaking away, there was a burr on one of the servo pistons causing drag, the second gear clutches and plates were burned in several spots.

The TCC clutch solenoid looked fine, but I replaced anyway as the part has been updated. Both valve bodies and the oil pumps were disassembled and cleaned. The torque converter was replaced and the tranny cooler flushed.

I left the engine in the car supported by threaded rod so I could tilt it down towards the drivers side fender. This way I did not have to touch the a/c system. I disconnected steering column and lowered the engine/trans/subframe enough to unbolt the rack from the subframe and then suspended the rack from the exhaust pipe. I then removed the subframe, and then the transmission. The biggest pain was removing and replacing the top two bellhousing bolts. You must use an 18mm short 3/8 socket to get past the wiring harness. Also, you must install the top two bellhousing bolts loosely in the transmission before mating up to the engine as it is impossible to put in the upper rear one afterwards.

The transmission shifts beautifully and the torque converter lockup is so smooth, you can't feel it. Mileage went up about 6 mpg. Total cost was $900 in parts plus $1200 in my labor(fixed a few other things on the car).

 

That sounds about right. I have no sign of anything wrong other than the code and only have 69800 miles on the car! 2003 Seville SLS.

I got a quote from a local transmission shop who does these frequently enough he had a run down of options for me off the top of his head.

1. Replace Solenoid would be close to the same price of replacing the torque converter since they have to take so much apart. $1850
2. Rebuild kit which includes the torque converter for $2600. 12 month 12k warranty.
3. Go to dealer 4600 for new re certified transmission $4600 3yr 100k warranty.

I'm going for the rebuild option 2. I tried to avoid this by getting the transmission flushed, and filter changed, 100 ea job = 200 total. Reset the code and waited. Code came back after a week.

Good luck everyone.

 

Solenoid will NOT actually fix this problem. Although the solenoid MAY be damaged/melted, it is the seals in the channel plate that seal the lock up oil pressure to the torque converter that are leaking, and causing the code to set. This is why just about everyone will tell you the trans needs to be overhauled/replaced.
Replacing the TCC solenoid MAY correct the problem for a few days, but the new solenoid will eventually fail, also. With the seals leaking, the PCM attempts to stop the converter slippage by commanding the solenoid ON full time....something the solenoid is not really made to do. The continued application of voltage/amperage will eventually melt the solenoid....which creates a new problem. It's a vicious circle.


$2600 for a complete O/H with converter is a STEAL. That's a $3000 job around here, and we do them every day, it seems.