I read and tried to find the OHMs in the pellet in the key for my 1992 Cadillac Seville STS 4.9 V8 FWD 4T60E 129,000 miles. I tried checking and the multimeter isn't coming up with anything. I tried it with a different vehicle I have and it is a 1991, but VATS was disabled because of different computer and engine. I got 3.71 on 20k ohm. Ok, that means my other car is a 10, but I can't get anything out of the Cadillac Seville. So would it be a 1 or is the pellet just worn out. It takes 4 to 10 trys before my car lets me start it. I have to keep waiting 3 minutes. I'm going to get stuck some where because of this piece of junk.

Any help would be good. Also would the original sales sticker have any of this info on it?






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Take key to dealer parts department, ask them to read key. If you bring registration they should be able to give you original VATS code. VATS code is not stored in ecm.

 

Ok, I'll try that.

 

I went to the dealership. They put the key in some key reading box and said it's a #12. So I looked at the FAQ that says I could bypass VATS. I went to get the resistors. The guy at Radioshack checked the key and it came to 3,062 ohms, which is a #9. A #12 is 6,000 ohms. So I made 2 lines of resistors, each has 3,000 ohms. I tried just 3,000 ohms and it wouldn't start and had to wait 3 minutes. So I tried hooking the other one up with it and still got the wait 3 minutes do to anti-theft. I talked to the person who sold me the car and they said they replace that ign. lock soleniod and has a new key. The orginal one has the same value in the pellet as the orginal one, that's what the guy said. Someone said it could be VATS module. Where is it located in the car and how much is a new one?

Also trouble codes I have are E13, E85, I39, I52, R26, R33. E13 is O2 sensor is bad since the wire is broke off and E85 is because the battery was unhooked. The others are because the back shocks were replaced at some point in time. The others are SIR ones, which I plan to unhook the airbag and tape the connector off.
Any help will be great. Thanks.

 

Here's a picture I drew. I hooked mine up like the first one. Is that right?

 

probably way too simple, but have you tried your spare key?

 

I don't have a spare ign. key. Earlier it took me 40 minutes to get the car to start. I'm starting to get tired of this car. I looked up on another website and found the ign. module is about $180. I don't really want to cough up that much money so I might have to try to make one. I checked my VATS by-pass that I made and with both sets of resistors connected, I get 5,900. It should be close to 6,040 so I might go get a 100 ohm resistor and put it in and see what happens.

 

Your a spending alot of time trying to bypass Passkey system. You have proven how effective it is. Dealer has tester that can determine if Passkey module is suspect. You started out likely just needing new ignition cylinder and key (approx 100.00 in parts) If in the process of trying to bypass it you damage other things. The cost repair will go up, because you will have to take car to dealer to get staighten out.

 

The last owner said they put a new ign. lock cylinder and key in the past year. They also said it had the same pellet/key number as the one before. The crazy part is whenever I try to check the ohms on the key, I get nothing like it's in open loop.
Do I take the car in to a dealership or do I take the ign. module in?

 

If you got AAA, call AAA.
You would be partially covered by the insurance.