Katzman - What year is your Cadillac? Saw the pic and it looks exactly likemine.

 

It's a 98,one owner retired gentlemen named Norman Katzman who owned Normetals. That's where I got my handle from. I purchased Katzman's Caddy from a GM Dealer when he traded it in on an Impala.Deville's from97 - 99 pretty much identical. Is your's Moonstone metatlic as well?

On the overheating, you need to have the proper coolant level in there to keepcirculating through the engine and rad and heater etc..Cadillac dealers here in Canada put in a water pump kit when they do the job which consists of the pump, thermostat and new rad cap. Good luck.

 

Mine was a one owner as well. It is in very good condition, only paid $2400 for it. Worth more than that in my opinion. I just love it.

I am not sure what the color is but it looks exactly like yours. Ill let ya know how the new therm. and cap work out tomorrow. Thanks for all of your information.

Sandi

 

If all you paid was $2400 I'd say that was quite the deal. If you think about it you can spend a few thousand and still be ahead.

 

I just got to thinking, how's your fan working?If it is not working properly that could explain the heat rising during stops when the car is at low RPM and not moving coolant through.

 

I think I got a great bargain. Its funny you talk about the fans cause my boyfriend and I were talking about them last night. The thermostat change seems to have helped some. I havent driving enough to see if its still heating up while sitting. So I will see this afternoon. I checked the coolant level and its down maybe an inch when normally it would be down atleast 3.

 

What temp do you think the fans should kick in??

 

Still trying to find temperature spec for fans but o/m says Limp Home Mode kicks in when coolant is 126 degrees C so I calculate about 250 degrees F so they should be coming on well below that. I'm at a bit of a disadvantag because we use metric system and even though DIS has both It is always set to metric. I have not seen my carhigher that 104 degees C so about say 220 F. The manual also says that normal coolant level is 2.5" below the base of the filler neck on the surge tank so your level sounds mormal.

Last thing, Coolant Temperature Sensor is about $15. With the stress you have been placing on it lately maybe it is shot. It would control a few functions and one would be the fans I believe. With an engine full of coolant it would be messy but all it is is a threaded fitting that goes in the block with an electrical connector. If you were quick you wouldn't loose that much coolant.Problem is you'd be changing all of the cooling system pieces on by one. Fans are about $130.

 

Well, haha...Got another check coolant level display today. I am about ready to pull my hair out. Along with the check coolant level came a new code P1139 - current - P1139 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Insuff. Switching Bank 1 Sensor 2. Is this the same sensor that you were talking about in the previous post? The temp has gotten toabout 225 but it goes right back down to 200 so I am not sure if it may be the fan or not. What is your opinion on it?

Thanks,

Sandi

 

I went out of the office for a while and set my DIS to imperial. My temp got to 196 and it fluxatedonly to 192 while I was driving. Beautiful day here in Toronto with a 38 degree outside temperature and a warm winter sun.

Well , you are losing coolant somewhere. Honestly there are plenty of places it could leak from Thermostat to heater hoses, radiator leak too. We keep trying to avoid the head gaskets. How's the oil any sign of coolant in there? Any white exhaust?

Check your passenger carpet, is it wet, that's where a leak in the climate control could show up. Any dampness on the rad fins, any dampness on the generator cooling lines, any dampness on any undercarriage areas under the motor or rad, any wet hoses to the heater or rad? How's your water pump repair, any leaking around there? Did you get the sealant pellets into the system.?

The O2 sensor is not the same as the Coolant Temp Sensor. That message is most likely a result of the engine running hot. There are other causes but probably not applicable in your case. I'm going to say you had better get a pressure test, that is about the only way you find a leak this slow. I'd also recommend a compression test too just to rule out the Head Gaskets.