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Allantesource can help save you a lot of money if your digital instrument cluster needs to be repaired. The most common problem is dim segments. In other cases, the rear board can fail, which causes the entire cluster to go out. In a few instances, the displays fail, and start showing incorrect or incomplete information. In some cases, there are problems which are outside the cluster, such as a bad sensor, and there is nothing wrong with the cluster at all. It is simply reporting bad information.

Please e-mail your exact symptoms to allantesource@prodigy.net, and we will help you determine what might be wrong, and how to best go about fixing it. If you cluster needs to be removed for repair, detailed instructions are provided below so you can remove it and send it to us. [align=center]
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[/align][align=center] REMOVING THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
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[/align][align=left] Removing the instrument cluster is not a difficult or time consuming job. The procedure varies slightly depending upon what year Allante' you have. For all years, the two bezels (trim pieces, one surrounding the light switch to the left of the steering column, and the other around the mirror (1987-89 only) and windshield wiper/washer switch on the right side of the steering column) below the instrument cluster bezel must be removed before the instrument cluster bezel is removed.
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[/align][align=left]Once these trim pieces have been removed, the remainder of the procedure is the same for all years.To remove the 1987 through 1989 bezels, there are two screw holes in the bottom of each of the bezels. Look up from underneath to locate them. With a phillips screwdriver, remove all four screws, then remove both bezels. This will expose the three screws that attach the bezel which surrounds the instrument cluster.[/align][align=left]
[/align][align=left]For 1990 through 1993 Allante's, there are no screws holding in the lower bezels. They simply snap in. In some instances, it may be necessary to loosen the trim plate under the steering column, if it is applying too much pressure to the bezels, and keeps them from popping out. Start at either side of either bezel, and pull gently. There are two spring clips at the bottom, and two at the top.
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[/align][align=left]Once both have pulled free, the bezel can be removed. A certain amount of "feel" is required here. Do not pull so hard as to break the bezels. If it does not come free with reasonable force, try pulling from the other end. If the bottom appears wedged against the lower trim piece (called the knee bolster), loosen the knee bolster as required to move it away from the bezel and provide adequate clearance.
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[/align][align=left]If you start from the steering column side to pull, you can get a finger in behind the bezel at the point. If you start at the outer end, a small screwdriver can be inserted behind the bezel, to enable you to get a bigger screwdriver and then a finger in behind it. In some instances, I have found that one end will pop free, but the other will not.
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[/align][align=left]In some instances, I have found it helpful to put a screwdriver in behind the bezel, and use it as a fulcrum, as close as possible to the stuck spring clip. By pushing back in on the free end, the stuck end will pop free.Once the lower bezels have been removed on all years, the 3 attaching screws for the bezel around the cluster will be exposed. It is best to use a magnetic phillps screwdriver to remove them. Otherwise, it is easy to drop them down into the switches.
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[/align][align=left]Once the 3 bezel screws have been removed, pivot the bottom of the bezel out, and then remove it. In some instances, the mounting tabs on the bezel will hit the mounting tabs on the top of the switches when you attempt to remove it. If you can't get the bezel to sneak by, you will need to loosen the mounting screws on the switch, to provide the extra clearance.Once the trim piece around the cluster has been removed, the cluster mounting bolts will be exposed. There are 7 of them, 4 on the bottom, and 3 on the top. They require a 7mm or 9/32 socket or nut driver for removal. Be careful not to drop them. The phillips head screws you will see hold the faceplate on the cluster. DO NOT REMOVE THEM.Once the 7 mounting screws have been removed, the cluster will come free. In a few instances, clearance inside the dash pad around the cluster has been pretty tight. It may be necessary to get some type of hook in behind the cluster and pull to get it started to come out. Lower the tilt steering wheel to full down position.
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[/align][align=left]On 1987 through 1989 models, telescope the wheel out away from the cluster as far as possible. There is one electrical connector of the back of the cluster that must be removed. On 1987 through 1989 model, you have room to pivot the cluster up on top of the dash in order to see the connector. Squeeze it and pull to remove. They are tight, so this takes some force.
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[/align][align=left]On 1990 through 1993 models, it will be necessary to move the cluster out toward the steering wheel as far as possible. Then reach in behind the cluster until you feel the electrical connector. The release tab is on the bottom. Squeeze the tab, while pulling and rocking the connector side to side until it comes free. Then remove the cluster.
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[/align][align=left]The manual instructs you to disconnect the battery before removing the cluster. Since it would be necessary to perform the idle learn procedure by doing this, I simply make sure the key is off, and do not disconnect the battery.[/align][align=left]
[/align][align=left]Send the cluster with payment to Allantesource. We will turn it around as quickly as possible, generally one day. Also, please select the speed of return shipping. Please call or e-mail and let us know what your problem is, so we can let you know the expected repair cost prior to shipping it to us.[/align] [align=center]
Shipping address:
Allantesource
1142a 53rd Court North
West Palm Beach, FL 33407
ph: 561-844-3938
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